India Guide
Tamil Nadu
Eating
1 Amaravati Corner of Cathedral and TTK roads One of four dependable options in this complex of regional speciality restaurants, south of the downtown area. This one does excellent Andhran food, including particularly tasty biriyanis. Price: Rs100–150
2 Annalakshmi 804 Anna Salai A charitable venture whose profits go to the community, run voluntarily by Sivananda devotees, where you can enjoy a leisurely and expensive meal in beautiful surroundings. You choose one of several set menus, each with different Ayurvedic properties. Price: Around Rs300 per person
3 
Dakshin ITC Park Sheraton & Towers, 132 TTK Rd 
044/2499 4101 One of the country's top south Indian restaurants. It serves up a wide choice of unusual dishes, including seafood in marinated spices, Karnataka mutton biriyani and appam made on the spot. Live Carnatic music in the evenings. Book in advance and expect to pay around Rs600 for a meal with starter and drink.
4 Khyber ITC Park Sheraton & Towers, 132 TTK Rd 044/2499 4101 Excellent upmarket option, serving a meaty poolside barbecue.
5 Residency ITC Park Sheraton & Towers, 132 TTK Rd 044/2499 4101 Excellent upmarket option, serving Indian, Western and Chinese.
6 Don Pepé 1st floor, above Hot Breads, Cathedral Rd Swish a/c Tex-Mex joint, serving a predictable menu of fajitas, enchiladas, tortillas and burritos, plus so-so pasta dishes (dubbed "Euro-Mex"). Hot Breads itself is a great bakery and coffee shop. Price: Main courses about Rs120
7 Kalyana Bhavan Biriyani 424 Pantheon Rd, Egmore As the name suggests, this is a biriyani specialist, serving tasty plain, chicken and mutton versions on banana leaves, accompanied by aubergine sauce and a semolina sweet. Price: Rs35–70
8 Mirch Masala Triplicane High Rd, near Broadlands Spotless but plain canteen that dishes up filling veg meals, mutton biriyani and various chicken dishes. Probably the best option in Triplicane. Price: Rs50–100
9 Saravana Bhavan Thanigai Murugan Rathinavel Hall, 77 Usman Rd, T Nagar This famous south Indian fast-food chain is an institution among the Chennai middle class, with other branches opposite the bus stand in George Town, in Egmore and in the forecourt of the Shanti cinema (at the top of Anna Salai). Try their delicious rawa iddlis, or range of thalis rounded off with some freshly made ladoo or barfi from the sweets counter outside. Price: Mains Rs30–80
10 Vasanta Bhavan 20 Gandhi Irwin Rd Easily the best "meals" joint among many aroundEgmore Station, with ranks of attentive waiters and delicious pure-veg food – just Rs30 for an unlimited thali. It's busy, spotlessly clean, and their coffee and sweets are delicious.
11 Veranda Taj Connemara, Binny Rd 044/5500 0000 The ideal venue for a posh Sun morning breakfast buffet, with crisp newspapers and fresh coffee served in silver pots. The blow-out lunchtime buffets (around Rs400) are also recommended, and à la carte Italian food is on offer in the evening. Reserve in advance.