India Guide
Rajasthan
Eating
1 
Ambrai Amet Haveli, Chand Pole In a superlative setting facing the City Palace, this is one of the few lakeside restaurants where the cooking lives up to its location. The menu features an extensive selection of north Indian veg and non-veg dishes (including top-notch tandooris), as well as a few Chinese and European offerings. Or just come for a sundowner and watch the sun set over the lake. Mains from around Rs140.
2 Edelweiss 71 Gangaur Ghat Marg, next to Gangaur Palace Excellent hole-in-the-wall bakery and pastry shop that receives a steady stream of customers thanks to its tasty home-baked apple pie, chocolate cake and fresh ground coffee.
3 The Gallery City Palace Buried away in the innards of the Fateh Prakash Palace hotel (just finding it is half the fun), this is Udaipur's most memorable spot for a classic English-style high tea (daily 3–6pm), served either on a sunny terrace overlooking the lake or in the grandiose Durbar Hall. Cream teas cost Rs285 and Rs340, or just come for a tea or coffee.
4 Natraj New Bapu Bazaar, behind Ashok Cinema Udaipur's top thali joint for over twenty years, but well off the tourist trail and fiendishly hard to find (head to Suraj Pol and then ask for directions). Easily the best cheap meal in town – just Rs50 for unlimited portions of five different vegetables.
5 Queen Café Chand Pol This homely and unpretentious little café offers a refreshing alternative to Udaipur's mainstream tourist restaurants, with an authentic taste of home-style vegetarian Indian cooking including coconut-flavoured banana, mango and pumpkin curries – all at giveaway prices, with most mains at around Rs45.
6 Savage Garden Chand Pol Stylish restaurant set in an old haveli given a funky modern makeover, with loads of blue and white paint and minimalist decor. Food is mainly Indian (veg and non-veg), with slight gourmet pretensions, plus a few European dishes including good pastas, salads and soups. Mains Rs110–210.
7 The Whistling Teal Raj Palace hotel, 103 Bhattiyani Chohatta. Attractive, tented garden restaurant serving well-prepared north Indian and Rajasthani veg and non-veg dishes from around Rs115 – pricier than average, but worth it. There's also a decent selection of shishas (Rs250), plus good coffee.