India Guide
Rajasthan
Eating
1 Jodhpur Sweets C Rd, Sardarpura, next to Gipsy The best sweet shop in town, and an excellent place to try makhan wada, mawa kachori, or any other Rajasthani or Bengali sweets.
2 Mishri Lal in the eastern arch of the south gate to Sardar Market The most famous purveyor of makhania lassi, made with cream, saffron and carda-mom, very rich and thick, but those with delicate stomachs should take note that they use crushed ice made from tap water. They also do good doodh feni.
3 Pokar Sweets corner of Nai Sarak with High Court Rd Known for their makhan wada, and their mirchi bada's pretty hot too. This is also a good place to try doodh feni.
4 Shri Parashnath Ice-Cream High Court Rd Jodhpur's best address for juices and ice cream. Their Marwari kulfi (kulfi with nuts and saffron) is outstanding.
5 Bollygood Khaas Bagh, Ratanada A fun, movie-themed restaurant with indoor or garden dining, veg or non-veg. Tandoori dishes are the mainstay. Main courses around Rs100–150.
6 Fort View Govind Hotel, Station Rd A cut above the usual tourist places, with good, reasonably priced veg curries and thalis (Rs55–110), local specialities such as makhania lassi and gulab jamun (not the Bengali sweet, but a savoury Rajasthani dish made with mawa), plus some Chinese items and good breakfast options, including real coffee. Also has Wi-Fi coverage, and you can hang out here while waiting for a bus or train (ba¥ggage storage facilities are available).
7 Gypsy C Rd, Sardarpura Downstairs it's a diner selling south Indian, Chinese and Continental snacks (Rs30–60). Upstairs it's an immaculate restaurant serving one thing only: an unlimited and very delicious veg thali (Rs90) which they keep refilling for as long as you can keep eating.
8 Marwar At the Taj Hari Mahal hotel, 5 Residency Rd 
0291/243 9700 Pricey, but the best place in town to sample traditional Marwari cuisine, such as Jodhpuri mas (a spicy mutton dish) or gatta di subzi (its veg equivalent). Mains Rs210–400.
9 
Midtown on a branch off Station Rd leading from opposite the station to Raj Ranchodji Temple Bright, clean and friendly, with a delicious range of pure-veg curries (Rs55–100), south Indian dishes, Gujarati and Rajasthani thalis (Rs70–100) and other Rajasthani specialities, as well as pizza and pasta.
10 On the Rocks Next to Ajit Bhawan hotel, Airport Rd 0291/230 2701 Attractive garden restaurant specializing in kebabs and tandoori cuisine. Fun and festive at night, though the lunch crowd is mostly tour groups. Mains Rs75–110 veg, Rs120–200 non-veg.
11 The Pillars Umaid Bhawan Palace hotel, southeast of town 0291/251 0101 A visit to this veranda café-restaurant gives you the excuse to wander around the hotel's opulent Art Deco interior – and it's also a great place for a sundowner. Sandwiches are available all day and there's a dinner menu of mostly Western food from 7.30pm, or take a seat on an elephant-foot footstool and have a drink in the Trophy Bar. Rs2000 minimum charge, payable on entry.