India Guide
Rajasthan
Accommodation
1 Cosy Bhram Puri, Chuna ki Choki, Navchokiya 
0291/261 2066 
www.cosyguesthouse.com A steep climb (signposted) from Navchokiya Road, but it's friendly and fun, and the upper terraces have killer views of the fort, as well as cheap tents – though you'll have to reserve ahead to get one. Price: Tents under RS200; rooms under Rs500
2 Durag Niwas 1 Old Public Park, Raika Bagh 0291/251 2385 www.durag-niwas.com Very friendly and well-run little place, great value and socially responsible too, with a volunteer programme helping disadvantaged local women. The plumbing is temperamental, however, so check the hot water before taking a room. Price: Rs201–1000
3 Ganpati Makrana Mohalla (exit Sardar Market through the northern gateway, then turn left then first right) 0291/263 1686 
ganpatigh@yahoo.co.uk Bright and comfortable rooms (all attached; some with a/c) in a nice modern guesthouse with fine fort views from the rooftop restaurant and the more expensive rooms. The same family's older and shabbier Shivam Guest House, just down the road, has a further selection of rooms at slightly cheaper rates. Price: Rs201–1000
4 
Govind Station Rd 0291/262 2758 www.govindhotel.com A long-standing travellers' favourite, with jolly rooms in pretty colours, a clean dorm, good rooftop restaurant (Fort View) and a very helpful owner. He doesn't pay commission, so auto-wallahs won't want to bring you here, but it's easy to find – look for the trees outside.Price: Dorm bed Rs90, rooms Rs301–1000
5 Yogi's Manak Chowk, Nayabas (about 50m down the road in front of the Krishna Prakash Haveli) 0291/264 3436 www.yogiguesthouse.com Right in the heart of the old city, this is one of Jodhpur's pricier guesthouses, but with an excellent location, pleasant rooms (some with a/c) and excellent fort views from the rooftop terrace, which is one of Rajasthan's best chill-out spaces. Price: Rs301–1500
6 Haveli Inn Pal near Gulab Sagar Lake (exit the north gate of Sardar Market, turn right and first left) 0291/261 2519 www.haveliinnpal.com Large, well-appointed rooms (all with a/c and TV; some with fort or lake views) in an eighteenth-century haveli. Reservations recommended. Price: Rs2001-3000
7 Indrashan 593 High Court Colony, 3km south of town 0291/244 0665 www.rajputanadiscovery.com Eight thoroughly comfortable rooms in an authentic homestay, with sumptuous cooking classes that draw amateur chefs from around the world. Non-guests are welcome for dinner if they call ahead (Rs350). Price: Rs501–1500
8 Inn Season PWD Rd 0291/261 6400 www.innseasonjodhpur.com Boutique hotel whose Art Deco rooms pay homage to the owner's love affair with vintage cars. A loyal clientele of handicraft exporters chill out at night to vinyl on a vintage gramophone. One drawback: it's noisy during wedding season (approx Oct– March) due to the wedding ground next door. Book ahead. Price: Rs1001–5000
9 Krishna Prakash Nayabas (it's straight up the road past the Shivam Guest House) 0/982 924 1547 www.kpheritage.com Heritage hotel in a superbly located haveli right below the fort walls. The building itself isn't that exciting, but rooms (almost all with a/c and TV) are nicely furnished with antique bric-a-brac and rates are surprisingly inexpensive. Price: Rs1001–3000
10 Pal Haveli near Gulab Sagar Lake 0291/329 3328 www.palhaveli.com In the same compound as Haveli Inn Pal, and owned by the same family, this is a more upmarket affair, with statelier rooms – a low-priced heritage hotel rather than a guesthouse. Price: Rs2001–5000
11 Shahi Gandhi St, City Police district, off Katla Bazaar opposite Narsingh Temple 0291/262 3802 shahigh@rediffmail.com Welcoming family guesthouse occupying a quirky 350-year-old haveli buried deep in the warren of lanes beneath the fort's southwest wall – and with superb views of it from the roof. The six rooms (air-cooled and a/c) are brimful of character, decorated with a medley of quaint murals and assorted curios. Call for directions. Price: Rs501–1500
12 Ajit Bhawan Airport Rd 0291/251 1410 www.ajitbhawan.com Despite the Flintstones-like theme-park design, this self-contained resort – built to resemble a dhani village – gets rave reviews for its try-hard attitude and relaxing environment. Accommodation is in cute little round chalets or more conventional rooms, and there's a quaint waterfall-fed pool (non-guests Rs500), thatch-roofed outdoor restaurant and spa. Rooms from around $140. Price: Rs5001 and above
13 Ranbanka Airport Rd 0291/251 0162 ranbankahotels.com In the other half of the palace occupied by Ajit Bhawan, this is more authentic in some ways (the rooms are actually inside the palace), but less professional and a bit creakier, though it has a nice pool (non-guests Rs500), a health spa and a garden restaurant. Price: Rs3001 and above
14 Taj Hari Mahal 5 Residency Rd, less than 1km south of town 0291/243 9700 www.tajhotels.com All the luxury you'd expect from a five-star Taj hotel, including good restaurants and a huge pool, but it lacks the charm and personality of the heritage and boutique alternatives. Rooms from around US$210. Price: Rs5001 and above
15 Umaid Bhawan Palace southeast of Jodhpur 0291/251 0101 www.tajhotels.com The Maharaja of Jodhpur's princely pileUmaid Bhawan Palace ranks among the world's grandest hotels, with celebrity guests and lashings of trendy Art Deco. But being king or queen for a day can be a solitary experience – some find the oversized suites, stately salons and dark, marbled passageways a bit foreboding. Rooms start at around US$850. Price: Rs5001 and above
16 Bal Samand Lake Palace 8km north of Jodhpur 0291/257 2321 www.welcomheritagehotels.com Among the most attractive heritage hotels in the state, converted from the maharaja's lakeside summer palace. The standard rooms are nothing special, but the nine suites in the main building are huge, airy and exquisitely furnished. Price: Rs5001 and above
17 Fort Chanwa Luni Luni, 36km south of Jodhpur 02931/284216, www.fortchanwa.com Set in an 1895 red-sandstone fort, with all the usual deluxe heritage-hotel trappings. The standard rooms aren't all that old-fashioned, however, so it's worth forking out more to get one that's a bit special. Price: Rs3001 and above
18 Fort Khejarla Khejarla, 84km east of Jodhpur 02930/258311 www.nivalink.com/fortkhejrala A mightily imposing fort with lots of carved red sandstone, tastefully furnished rooms and views over the surrounding countryside. The best rooms are in the turrets. Price: Rs2001–5000
19 Jhalamand Garh Jhalamand, 7km south of Jodhpur 0291/274 0481 This eighteenth-century palace of the thakurs (barons) of the village of Jhalamand is close enough to Jodhpur that you can actually see the city from it. The whole building is rather elegant, and the lobby was formerly the thakur's Diwan-i-Am (audience hall).Price: Rs3001-5000
20 Khimsar Fort Khimsar, 80km northeast of Jodhpur 01585/262345 www.nivalink.com/khimsar A variety of rooms (from Rs6000) in different styles – some traditional, some Art Deco – plus a pool, tennis courts, a croquet lawn and golf practising facilities at this former sixteenth-century fort. Price: Rs5001 and above
21 Rohet Garh Rohet, 39km south of Jodhpur 02936/268231 or 531 www.rohetgarh.com This sleek palace hotel offers cool, spacious rooms, candle-lit poolside dinners, royal-style picnics with liveried attendants, plus culinary workshops, horse riding and bird-watching expeditions. Price: Rs3001 and above
22 Sardar Samand Palace Pali, 65km southeast of Jodhpur 02960/245001 www.welcomheritagehotels.com Bird-watchers and fans of Art Deco will love this hunting lodge built in 1930 for the maharaja of Jodhpur. On the highest piece of land for miles, with magnificent panoramic views, the palace has retained many of its original features. Activities include bird-watching, nature walks and village safaris. Price: Rs5001 and above