India Guide
Rajasthan
Eating
1 Chandan Shree Restaurant on the outside of the city wall, just south of Amar Sagar Pol Popular diner for inexpensive veg curries (Rs20–75) and thalis (Rs50–100), as well as Rajasthani specialities such as govind gatta and malai jamun.
2 July 8 Main Chowk, in Jaisalmer Fort Recommended for its privileged terrace view of the fort's bustling main chowk and palace rather than for its food, though it has a good selection of smoothies, lassis, juices and jaffels, along with Indian, Italian and Chinese mains (Rs50–85). Good spot for breakfast.
3 Little Italy just inside first gate of Jaisalmer Fort Italian restaurant with great pasta dishes (Rs90–120), served in heaped portions at reasonable prices (the pizzas make a stab at authenticity, but don't really cut it) and a superb terrace directly opposite the main ramparts – wonderful when they're floodlit at night.
4 Little Tibet In Jaisalmer Fort Run by a team of young Tibetans, this travellers' café serves up all the usual Indian and Chinese choices, plus enchiladas, pasta, and a range of Tibetan food including momos, thukpa and thantuk. Also a good venue for breakfast. Mains Rs55–85.
5 Monica Near the first gate of Jaisalmer Fort Moderately priced Rajasthani and tandoori dishes, plus delicious veg and non-veg Rajasthani thalis (Rs125/175). Mains Rs70–140.
6 
Natraj Opposite the Salim Singh ki Haveli Friendly rooftop non-veg restaurant, popular for its excellent, gently spiced Mughlai chicken, malai kofta and other Indian dishes (mains Rs65–130).
7 Saffron Nachana Haveli, Gandhi Chowk 
02992/251910 Slightly upmarket restaurant with fine tandoori and Mughlai food, plus some Continental and Chinese options (mains Rs50–140) and live music in the evenings.
8 Shree Bikaner Restaurant north of Hanuman Circle, near Geeta Ashram Punjabi veg curries (Rs35–80), a choice of Rajasthani, Gujarati and Bengali thalis (Rs50–90), and a wonderful dal bati churma (a traditional Rajasthani dish consisting of baked wheatflour balls served with dhal and sweet churma sauce; Rs90), which they'll keep refilling till you've had enough.
9 Trio Gandhi Chowk 02992/252733 Slightly upscale choice known for its sumptuous tandoori food (most mains around Rs130), plus some Rajasthani specialities like gatta (gram-flour dumplings) and lal maas (spicy lamb marinaded in chilli). Book early for the best tables overlooking the Mandir Palace and fort.
10 Vyas Meals Near the Jain temples in Jaisalmer Fort Hole-in-the-wall place run by an elderly couple who do superb home-style veg thalis and snacks at unbeatable prices (Rs20–40). Eat in or take away, but expect a long wait for either.
11 Bhang shop Gopa Chowk If you like bhang, this is one of the best places in the country to get it, with a whole menu of bhang-laced drinks and sweets, and a choice of different strengths.
12 Joshi's German Bakery Gopa Chowk Scrumptious range of fresh cakes, croissants and cookies, especially in the morning. Too bad the coffee's instant.
13 Krishna's Boulangerie in the fort, near the Jain temples A handy place to stop for a breather in the fort, with excellent coffee, reasonable cakes, and more substantial food, including pizzas.
14 RK Juice Center Bhatia Bazaar Wonderful, freshly pressed juices including pomegranate, pineapple and banana, or carrot and ginger. No ice or tap water.