India Guide
Rajasthan
Nahargarh
Address: In the hills immediately north of Jaipur
Price: Fort free; apartments Rs5, camera Rs30, video Rs70
Opening time: Fort daily 24hr; apartments daily 10pm–5pm
The main reason to visit the eye-catchingNahargarh, or "Tiger Fort", sprawling along the edge of the hills north of Jaipur, is to enjoy the superb late-afternoon views of the city. Built by Jai Singh II in 1734, its imposing walls stretch almost a kilometre, although the only significant structures within are the palace apartments, built by Madho Singh II between 1883 and 1892 as a love nest to house his most treasured concubines. The large and rather plain pale-pink structure is filled with dozens of virtually identical rooms and a disorienting labyrinth of corridors and stairwells.
Vehicles of any kind can only get to the fort along a road that branches off Amber Road, a fifteen-kilometre journey from Jaipur. It's simpler to take the stiff fifteen- to twenty-minute walk up. along a steep, hard-to-find path that climbs from the north side of the city centre. At the top of the path, go through the first gate then head left, up the steps opposite a large bathing pool and through a second gate into the palace area, then head around to the left to reach the palace itself. Avoid going up too late in the day or returning after dark – the fort is popular with delinquent teenagers and other unsavoury types, and the atmosphere can be a tad seedy at the best of times. There are a couple of cafés in the palace complex.