India Guide
Orissa
Similipal National Park
Formerly the private hunting ground of the Maharaja of Mayurbhunj, the 2750-square-kilometre Similipal National Park, a Project Tiger reserve west of Baripada, is one of eastern India's last true wildernesses. It remains off the beaten track largely because of its inaccessibility and the difficulty of booking its rudimentary accommodation. If you overcome these obstacles, however, the rewards more than compensate. Apart from the elusive tigers – park rangers claim they number almost one hundred, alongside equally secretive leopards – the reserve boasts sloth bears, deer, gaur, and langur monkeys, while wild elephant are common. The landscape itself is equally rich, with beautiful granite hills, and tranquil old-growth sal forest.
Similipal is open from November to mid-June, but the ideal visiting season ends in February. Access via either Pithabata, 25km from Baripada, or Tulsibani, 15km from Jashipur, requires a day-permit, which can only be purchased on the day of entry, or an accommodation permit allowing you to stay at one of the lodges inside the park for up to three nights, which, except in the case of one lodge, requires advance booking. Either way, the daily fee is Rs1000 [Rs40] plus Rs100 per vehicle, and Rs100 camera charge. Without your own vehicle, the only way to get around is to rent a Jeep; expect this to cost Rs1000–1500 per day; a guide will cost a further Rs400–600.
Staying at one of the seven very basic lodges (all Rs201–1000) within Similipal allows time to see more of the park. The best for spotting wildlife is Chahala (83km from Baripada, 35km from Jashipur). To book it, send a written application at least 30 days in advance, listing the name, age, sex, nationality, passport number and visa validity for each member of the group, to the Field Director, Similipal Tiger Reserve, Bhanjpur, Baripada, Mayurbhanj, Orissa, 757002 ( 
06792/252593, Ebid_smitig@bsnl.in). You then receive a "Letter of Advice" requesting payment, which has to be made by demand draft.
It's much easier to book an organized tour through a travel agent that will arrange permits, travel, food and accommodation: Heritage Tours in Puri ( 06752/223656, www.heritagetoursorissa.com) or Discover Tours in Bhubaneswar ( 0674/243 0477, 
www.orissadiscover.com ) both offer packages, but will still need 30 days' notice.