India Guide
Mumbai
Elephanta
An hour's ride northeast across Mumbai harbour from Colaba, the island of Elephanta offers the best escape from the seething claustrophobia of the city – as long as you time your visit to avoid the weekend deluge of noisy day-trippers. Populated only by a small fishing community, it was originally known as Gherapura, the "city of Ghara priests", until the island was renamed in the sixteenth century by the Portuguese in honour of the carved elephant they found at the port (now on display outside the Dr Bhau Dadji Lad – formerly Victoria and Albert – Museum in Byculla). Its chief attraction is its unique cave temple, whose massive Trimurti (three-faced) Shiva sculpture is as fine an example of Hindu architecture as you'll find anywhere.
"Deluxe" boats set off from the Gateway of India (Oct– May Tues– Sun hourly 9am–2.30pm; Rs150 return including government guide; book through the kiosks near the Gateway of India). Ask for your guide at the cave's ticket office on arrival – tours last thirty minutes. Ordinaryferries (Oct– May Tues– Fri hourly 9am–3pm; Rs125 return), also from the Gateway of India, don't include guides and are usually more packed. Cool drinks and souvenir stalls line the way up the hill, and, at the top, the MTDC Chalukya restaurant offers substandard food and warm beer, served on a terrace with good views out to sea, Note that you cannot stay overnight on the island and that the caves are closed on Mondays.
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