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India Guide

Madhya Pradesh

Eating

    1 Angan Ashray hotel, 77 Dewas Rd Alongside the tandoori and Chinese staples are a few surprising options, including fish fingers with tartare sauce. Service is painfully slow but cold beers (Rs100 per bottle) are available to help pass the time. Mains Rs45–80.

    2 Indian Coffee House Durga Plaza, Dewas Rd Unpretentious spot for a moderately priced masala dosa or light meal (Rs25–60); although a little harassed during the breakfast rush, staff noticeably relax as the day wears on.

    3 Nauratan Shipra Residency hotel, University Rd Typical MP Tourism menu – veg, Mughal, tandoori and Chinese dishes, plus some western options (Rs40–100) – in above-average surroundings, plus Ujjain's widest choice of alcoholic drinks.

    4 Zharokha Grand Tower hotel, Vikram Marg A varied menu of north Indian favourites, with particularly rich sauces, plus a few obligatory Chinese dishes thrown in for good measure (Rs40–60).