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India Guide

Madhya Pradesh

Eating

    1 Bella Italia Jain Temples Rd A fine economical option for home-made pizzas, pastas, hygienically prepared salads and crepes. During the early evening, hundreds of parrots congregate in the trees opposite to make an almighty racket, before settling down for the night around 8pm. Mains Rs95–190.

    2 Blue Sky Main Rd This rooftop restaurant offers a unique experience: a table in a treehouse high above the other diners (just ring the bell for service). Even if you don't have a head for heights, the thalis, Chinese meals and decent stabs at gnocchi and risotto make it worth a visit. The refreshing jeevan rakshak ghol (mineral water, lime juice, sugar and salt) is hard to beat on a hot day. Mains Rs45–130.

    3 German Bakery Main Rd A tiny shop-front, with four plastic stools, a rickety table and tempting home-baked croissants, pain au chocolat, rolls, cookies and brownies all for around Rs10–30, plus it does filter coffee. Those with more adventurous palates can try the Nepalese yak's-milk cheese sandwiches.

    4 Lotus Jain Temples Rd Relaxed rooftop eatery with bright red tablecloths, good breakfast options like aloo paratha, and Indian and Chinese staples for later on. Mains Rs60–150.

    5 Madras Coffee House Jain Temples Rd Straightforward canteen serving south Indian food like dosas, vadas and uttapams at (more expensive) north Indian prices (Rs30–80).

    6 Author Pick Mediterraneo Jain Temples Rd 07686/272246 Authentic thin-crust pizzas from a wood-fired oven, handmade pasta, home-baked brown bread with their own marmalade, chocolate cake, muffins and unparalleled cappuccinos make the delightful Mediterraneo the top joint in town. Bookings advised. Mains Rs150–260.

    7 Paradise Airport Rd Typical pancake and non-spicy thali menu (Rs35–100), with little tables and lanterns on a roof terrace that overlooks the waterlily-covered Shiv Sagar lake.

    8 Raja Café Main Square Khajuraho's buzzing one-stop shop: as well as offering official guides, Internet access and a bookstore, Raja also does a good line in rostis, stroganoff, goulash and the ever-popular southern fried chicken, as well as Indian and Chinese options and cold beer. Mains Rs60–100.

    9 Safari Jain Temples R Travellers' hangout, serving chicken and chips, extensive breakfasts, and a big range of lassis to the strains of Bob Marley. Mains Rs50–100.