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India Guide

Madhya Pradesh

Eating

    1 Aggarwal's Hamidia Rd A cheerful local stalwart with lively Hindi music, flashing light, religious shrines and an absolute bargain Rs30 bottomless veg thali.

    2 Indian Coffee House Hamidia Rd Big breakfast venue for south Indian snacks, eggs and filter coffee served with great style at rock-bottom prices (Rs20–70).

    3 Kwality New Market Bhopal branch of the reliable national chain with outdoor seating, a busy canteen area and a more sedate a/c dining room. There is a vast array of snacks like bhel puri, pizzas, Chinese and Indian main meals (Rs30–70).

    4 Manohar Dairy & Restaurant Hamidia Rd Glitzy fast-food-style joint popular with families, where yellow-shirted waiters dish up south Indian snacks like dosas, veg burgers, pizzas, pastries and ice cream (Rs20–50). Try the north Indian favourite cholle bhatura: piping hot, fluffy bread pockets with rich, spicy chickpeas.

    5 New Inn Bhadbhada Rd, New Market Despite the large glass frontage – decorated with an incongruous yellow and green dragon design – this eatery has a slightly gloomy exterior. However, the food, particularly the mutton and chicken kebabs, comes up trumps (mains Rs50–90).

    6 Swad Bharat Bhavan Arts Centre Attracting a refreshingly mixed crowd of students, artists and visitors with its economically-priced samosas, pakoras and mini meals (Rs3–30), Swad's terrace is a great place to watch the sunset, but don't forget the mosquito repellent.

    7 Wind and Waves Lake Drive Rd Sample the same old MP Tourism menu (mains Rs60–120) in a much better than usual setting conveniently close to the lakeside museums and the boat-rental jetty.