India Guide
Ladakh
LADAKH, the far-flung eastern corner of Jammu and Kashmir state, is India's most remote and sparsely populated region, a high-altitude snow desert cradled by the Karakoram and Great Himalayas ranges, and criss-crossed by a myriad razor-sharp peaks and ridges.
Variously described as "Little Tibet" or "the last Shangri-La", this is one of the last enclaves of Mahayana Buddhism, now brutally suppressed in its native Tibet. Strings of multicoloured prayer flags flutter from the rooftops of houses, while bright prayer wheels and whitewashed chortens guard the entrances to even the tiniest settlements. More mysterious still are Ladakh's medieval monasteries, or gompas, perched on rocky hilltops and clinging to sheer cliffs, and concentrated especially in the Indus Valley near Leh.
Far beyond the reach of the monsoons, Ladakh receives little snow, especially in the valleys, and even less rain (just four inches per year). Only the most frugal methods enable its inhabitants to farm the thin sandy soil, frozen solid for eight months of the year and scorched for the other four. In recent years, global warming has meant drier winters with even less snow; the consequent loss of snow-melt has put pressure on traditional farming and irrigation, resulting in a real fear of drought.
Two main "highways" connect Ladakh with the rest of India. Due to unrest in Kashmir, the legendary Srinagar–Leh road sees far less tourist traffic than the route up from Manali, almost 500km south. Unless you fly direct to Leh (the world's highest airport at 3505m), the decision of when to visit is largely made for you: the passes into the region only open between late June and late October.
Three areas are firm favourites with travellers: the Nubra Valley north of Leh; the area around Pangong Tso, east of Leh; and the Rupshu region southeast of Leh. Both Indian and foreign visitors need permits to visit these areas. In theory, these are only issued to groups of at least four people accompanied by a guide, and only through a local tour operator. However, in practice travel agents are generally happy to issue permits to solo individuals travelling independently.
Highlights
1 Leh Medieval streets, a Tibetan-style palace, bazaars and looming snowy peaks.
2 Zanskar Walled in by the Himalayas, during the winter Zanskar can only be reached by following the frozen river route.