India Guide
Kerala
Accommodation
1 
Biju's Tourist Home Corner of Cannonshed and Market roads, Ernakulam 
0484/238 1881 
www.bijustouristhome.com Pick of the budget bunch: friendly, efficient and only 2min walk from the boat jetty, with thirty spotless, well-aired and generously sized rooms ranged over four storeys. For telephone reservations, ask to speak in person to the manager, Mr Thomas Panakkal. Price: Rs501-1000
2 Broadway Tower TD West Rd, Ernakulam 0484/236 1645 www.broadwaytowers.com Situated in the thick of Ernakulam's busy textile bazaar, this recently built, well-scrubbed little economy hotel occupies the second and third storeys of a modern block. Its rooms offer great value for money (including the cheapest a/c rooms in town). Price: Rs301–1000
3 Maple Guest House XL/271 Cannonshed Rd, Ernakulam 0484/235 5156 Best of the few rock-bottom options in the streets immediately east of the boat jetty, with cheap, clean, non-a/c rooms close to the city centre – though it's not nearly as pleasant as Biju's. Price: Rs201–500
4 Saas Tower Cannonshed Rd, Ernakulam 0484/236 5319 www.saastower.com Since its refit, this tower- block hotel, with 72 well-furnished rooms, has begun to rival nearby Biju's for quality and price at the upper end of the budget category. Singles from Rs300, and also some a/c options. Price: Rs301–1000
5 Excellency Nettipadam Rd, Jos Junction, Ernakulam 0484/237 8251 www.hotelexcellency.com Smart, modern mid-range place, offering better value than most options in the city centre. The majority of its 49 rooms are a/c, and there's a 24hr coffee shop and quality multi-cuisine restaurant. Price: Rs501–1500
6 Government Guest House Marine Drive, Ernakulam 0484/236 0502 The maharaja of Kerala's great-value Government Guest House, in a shiny new eight-storey tower overlooking the harbour. Centred on a vast atrium lobby, its rooms offer comfort comparable to a four-star business-class hotel, only at amazingly low rates (and they do single occupancy). Advance reservation, as with all Kerala state guesthouses, can be hit-and-miss. Price: Rs1001-1500
7 Grand MG Rd, Ernakulam 0484/238 2061 This is the most classically glamorous place to stay in central Ernakulam. Spread over three floors of a 1960s building, its relaxing a/c rooms are done out in retro-colonial style, with varnished wood floors and split-cane blinds. Surprisingly low tariffs given the level of comfort and location. Price: Rs2001–5000
8 Sealord Shanmugham Rd, Ernakulam 0484/238 2472 www.sealordhotels.com The high-rise Sealord, near the High Court Jetty, has been an institution in the city for four decades and, with its handsome new interiors, offers excellent value for money. Their "standard" rooms are the best deal (ask for one on the top floor), and there's a relaxing rooftop terrace restaurant and bar. Price: Rs1001–2000
9 Adam's Old Inn 1/430 Burgher St, Fort Cochin 0484/221 7595 Ropey old budget travellers' lodge that's been here for years but recently come under new management. Plans are afoot to upgrade the hard coir mattresses and phase out the rooftop dorm, but for the time being this is still one of Fort Cochin's few rock-bottom cheapies. Price: Dorm under Rs200, rooms Rs501-1000
10 Leelu Queiros St, Fort Cochin 0484/221 5377 www.leeluhomestay.com A very welcoming little homestay, tucked away down a quiet lane in a former family home that's been completely modernized. Its cheerfully decorated guest rooms are spacious, with squashy mattresses, huge bathrooms and optional a/c (Rs500 extra). Landlady Mrs Leelu Roy also offers popular daily cookery classes (non-guests welcome). Especially recommended for women travellers. Price: Rs501–1500
11 Orion 926 KL Bernard Rd, Fort Cochin 0484/321 9312 
mail@orionhomestay.com Impeccable little homestay in a new house on the quiet south side of town. Rates vary according to size of rooms, which don't all have balconies, but are all kept shining and neat. Price: Rs501–1500
12 Santa Cruz Peter Celli St, Fort Cochin 0484/221 6250 Half of the rooms in this small guesthouse behind St Francis's Church have windows opening onto an enclosed corridor, but the others are well ventilated – and they're all impeccably clean, neatly tiled and freshly painted throughout, with new beds. Good value. Price: Rs301–1000
13 Ballard Bungalow River Rd, Fort Cochin 0484/221 5854 www.cochinballard.com Eighteenth-century Dutch mansion, converted into a good-value hotel by the local diocese, with original wood floors (but rather dodgy furniture). Friendly, helpful staff. Price: Rs1501–3000
14 Chiramel Residency 1/296 Lilly St, Fort Cochin 0484/221 7310 www.chiramelhomestay.com A great seventeenth-century heritage homestay, with welcoming owners and five lofty and carefully restored non-a/c rooms. All have big wooden beds, teak floors and modern bathrooms. Price: Rs1501-2000
15 Delight Ridsdale Rd, opposite the Parade Ground, Fort Cochin 0484/221 7658 www.delightfulhomestay.com Occupying an annexe tacked onto a splendid 300-year-old Portuguese mansion, David and Flowery's homestay holds seven spacious, comfortable and well-aired rooms, all equipped with new bathrooms and quiet ceiling fans. Price: Rs501–3000
16 Fort House 2/6A Calvathy Rd, Fort Cochin 0484/221 7103 www.hotelforthouse.co.in Stylishly simple rooms ranged along the sides of a sandy courtyard littered with pot plants and votive terracotta statues. Those in the much preferable original block (#1–5) have white walls and red-oxide floors, and chic little wet-room bathrooms – though the a/c units can be noisy. Rates include breakfast. Price: Rs1501-2000
17 The Old Courtyard 1/371–2 Princess St, Fort Cochin 0484/2216302 www.oldcourtyard.com A gem of a heritage hotel, whose eight rooms flank a photogenic seventeenth-century courtyard framed by elegant Portuguese arches and bands of original azulejos tiles. For once the decor and antique furnishings (including romantic four-posters) are in keeping with the building – though some may find them dark and lacking modern refinements. Price: Rs3001 and above
18 Raintree 1/618 Peter Celli St, Fort Cochin 0484/325 1489 www.fortcochin.com Five outstandingly smart rooms furnished in modern style in a cosy guesthouse that's within easy walking distance of the sights, but still tucked away. The really nice thing about this place, though, is its roof terrace, which has panoramic views over the neighbourhood. Price: Rs1501-2000
19 Spencer Home 1/298 Parade Rd, Fort Cochin 0484/221 5049 Warm-toned wood pillars and gleaming ceramic tiled floors line the verandas fronting this Portuguese-era house's eleven immaculate rooms, which open onto a garden. Peaceful and good value for the area. Price: Rs501–2000
20 Walton's Homestay Princess St, Fort Cochin 0484/221 5309 cewalton@rediffmail.com Among Cochin's most characterful homestays, run by philosopher and local historian Mr Christopher Edward Walton. Try to book the "garden cottage". Price: Rs1001–2000
21 Brunton Boatyard Bellar Rd, next to Fort Cochin Jetty 0484/221 8221 www.cghearth.com The architecture and furnishings of this luxury CGH chain hotel set out to replicate the feel of the British era, with antique punkah fans dangling from the lobby ceiling and portraits of old worthies on the walls. Three types of room are offered, all of them overlooking the harbour – though avoid the noisier ones on the jetty side of the complex. Facilities include three restaurants, an Ayurveda centre and a waterside pool. $240–350. Price: Rs5001 and above
22 Koder House Tower Rd, Fort Cochin 0484/221 8485 www.koderhouse.com One of the Fort's newest boutique hotels, in a 200-year-old house that originally belonged to a prominent Jewish merchant. The imposing red, double-fronted facade is less alluring than its interiors, with their long, dark wood floors, original art and antique furniture. Six suites are on offer, from around $300. Price: Rs5001 and above
23 Malabar House 1/268 Parade Rd, Fort Cochin 0484/221 6666 www.malabarhouse.com Fort Cochin's original and most stylish boutique hotel is set in a historic eighteenth-century mansion at the bottom of the Parade Ground. Crammed with antiques and contemporary Keralan art, the German-designed interiors present a mix of traditional charm and European chic, centred on a serene temple-style courtyard pool. Tariffs ($270–460) include breakfast. Price: Rs5001 and above
24 The Old Harbour, Fort Cochin 1/328 Tower Rd 0484/221 8006 www.oldharbourhotel.com This 300-year-old former Portuguese hospice – is a storehouse of graceful Lusitanian arches, lathe-turned wood pillars and teak floors – is one of Kerala's top heritage hotels, at a prime location close to the Chinese fishing nets. It holds thirteen individually-styled rooms facing an internal courtyard or the garden, and there's a large outdoor pool. $115–230. Price: Rs5001 and above