India Guide
Karnataka
Udupi
UDUPI (also spelt Udipi) is one of south India's holiest Vaishnavite centres. The Hindu saint Madhva (1238–1317) was born here, and the Krishna temple and maths (monasteries) he founded are visited by lakhs of pilgrims. The largest numbers congregate in late winter, when the town hosts spectacular car festivals and gigantic, bulbous-domed chariots are hauled through the streets. Even if your visit doesn't coincide with a festival, Udupi is a good place to break the journey along the Karavali coast. Thronging with pujaris and pilgrims, its small sacred enclave is wonderfully atmospheric.
Udupi's Krishna temple lies five minutes' walk east of the main street, surrounded by the eight maths founded by Madhva in the thirteenth century. Legend has it that the idol enshrined within was discovered by the saint himself after he prevented a shipwreck. The grateful captain of the vessel concerned offered Madhva his precious cargo as a reward, but the holy man asked instead for a block of ballast, which he broke open to expose a perfectly formed image of Krishna. Believed to contain the essence (sannidhya) of the god, this deity draws a steady stream of pilgrims, and is the focus of almost constant ritual activity. It is cared for by acharyas, or pontiffs, from one or other of the maths. They perform pujas (5.30am–8.45pm) that are open to non-Hindus; men are only allowed into the main shrine bare-chested.
Udupi's weekend picnic spot, Malpé Beach, 5km northwest of the centre, is disappointing, marred by a forgotten concrete block that was planned to be a government-run hotel. After wandering around the smelly fish market at the harbour you could haggle to arrange a boat (Rs800) to take you out to St Mary's Island, an extraordinary rockface of hexagonal basalt. Vasco da Gama is said to have placed a cross here in the 1400s, prior to his historic landing at Kozhikode in Kerala. From a distance, the sandy beach at Thottam, 1km north of Malpé and visible from the island, is tempting; in reality it's an open sewer.