India Guide
Himachal Pradesh
The Manali–Leh Highway
The 485-kilometre Manali–Leh Highway is the most popular approach to Ladakh. In summer, a stream of vehicles set off from the Kullu Valley to travel the world's second-highest road, which reaches a dizzying altitude of 5328m. Its surface varies wildly from smooth asphalt through potholes to dirt tracks sliced by glacial streams, traversing a starkly beautiful lunar wilderness. The journey takes seventeen to thirty hours' actual driving. Bus drivers invariably stop for a short and chilly night in an overpriced tent camp en route.
Once out of Manali, the road begins its long ascent of the Rohtang Pass (3978m). Buses pull in for breakfast 17km before the pass at a row of makeshift dhabas at Marhi (3360m). The pass is very treacherous; hence its name, which means "piles of dead bodies". The road descends from Rohtang into the Chandra Valley, reaching the river at scruffyKoksar. The next few hours are memorable, as it runs across the valley's northern slopes, hemmed in by towering peaks and hanging glaciers towards Keylong.
Beyond Keylong, the Bhaga Valley broadens, but its bare sides support very few villages. By the time you reach lonelyDarcha, the landscape is utterly denuded. If you are not on one of the through Manali–Leh buses, it's best to stop at JISPA 7km south, a pleasant little hamlet with ample camping along the river as well as the upmarket Hotel Jispa ( 
01900/233203); they also have dorm beds for Rs200.
From Darcha, the road climbs steadily northeast to the Baralacha La pass. On the other side, northbound buses that haven't overnighted in Keylong stop for the night at either Sarchu Serai or the tent camp at PANG (4500m), which stays open longer. North of Pang, the fourth and final pass, the Taglang La, is at a literally breathtaking 5328m. If the weather's clear, you can gaze north to the Karakoram Range, just visible on the horizon.
From Taglang La, 40km of switchbacks deliver you to the neat barley fields and white chortens of Ladakhi villages. At Upshi, the road reaches the dramatic Indus Valley. Traffic builds as you approach Choglamsar, then climb the final dusty kilometres to Leh.