India Guide
Haryana and Punjab
Eating
1 Bharawan da Dhaba Near the City Hall One of the best dhabas in Amritsar, though it's now grown into a full-sized restaurant, serving simple and inexpensive but good veg curries. Price: Rs30–70
2 Bubby Vaishno Dhaba Opposite the Golden Temple main entrance A handy place for veg curries (Rs20–70), thalis (Rs40–70) and breakfast options such as parathas or puris, plus a few south Indian dishes for good measure.
3 Chicken King and Chicken Inn 1 Pink Plaza Market, outside Hall Gate Two grubby and insalubrious-looking dhabas which double up as drinking dens, but they cook all the food out front. The Amritsari fish (Rs80 per quarter kilo) is succulent and the tandoori chicken's pretty good too (Rs100 for a plate of chicken tikka).
4 Crystal Crystal Chowk One of the city's most popular restaurants, with Indian, Chinese and Western dishes served in comfortable surroundings, or from "fast-food" outlets on the street. Price: Non-veg mains Rs150–200
5 Kesar da Dhaba Between Golden Temple and Durgiana Temple A limited menu of basic veg curries in an establishment that's been going since 1916. Price: Rs20–60
6 Makhan Fish House Lawrence Rd A little dhaba ("old and famous", it proclaims) where you can tuck into tasty Amritsari fish (singara) at Rs120 for a quarter kilo.
7 New Punjabi Rasoli By Jallianwalla Bagh Indian vegetarian dishes, plus some Chinese and Continental, at reasonable prices. Most of the Indian dishes involve paneer (the paneer tomato is good), but there's also a delicious mushroom tikka. Price: Rs40–65
8 Prakash Meet Shop Maqbool Rd, 500m north of Mall Rd One of three adjoining, locally renowned dhabas are an Amritsar institution, frying up spicy mutton tikka or (for the brave) brain curry, on tawas (griddles) out front, at Rs70 a throw.
9 Sindhi Coffee House Opposite Ram Bagh Tinted windows and tablecloths, and a menu that includes thalis, biriyanis and some Sindhi specialities. Price: Main dishes Rs80–110
10 Spice Room Blue Moon Hotel, Mall Rd Mainly Chinese dishes, with the accent on spicy, plus some Indian and Western options. Price: Main dishes Rs110–195