India Guide
Goa
Eating
1 Bean Me Up near the petrol pump. India's one and only American-run tofu joint – the last word in Goan gourmet healthy eating. Main courses come with steamed spinach, brown bread and hygienically washed salads; try their delicious Thai-style tempeh in spicy cashew sauce. There's also a tempting range of vegan desserts – the banana pudding with soya whip is a winner. Price: Main courses Rs200–250
2 China Town Chapora Crossroads, next to Bethany Inn This small roadside restaurant, tucked away just south of the main drag, is the village's most popular budget eating place, serving particularly tasty seafood dishes in addition to a large Chinese selection, as well as all the usual Goa-style travellers' grub.
3 Nine Bar above Ozran beach Boasting a crystal trance sound-system, this clifftop café enjoys a prime location, with fine sea views from its terrace through the palm canopy, where Nepali waiters serve up cold beer and the usual range of budget travellers' grub. The dancing starts after dark and keeps going until the bar closes around 10pm. Entrance is free, but drink prices are stiff (Rs175 for a beer); you'll have your bags searched on the way in for drugs and explosives. Strictly no photography.