China Guide
Yunnan
Yuanyang
For much of its journey across Yunnan, Hong He, the Red River, is channelled through a series of fertile, steep-sided valleys which have been terraced by resident Hani. The Hani's mushroom-shaped adobe and thatch houses pepper the hills and their terraced fields stretch as far as the eye can see, making for one of the greatest sights of the province, at their most breathtaking between March and May, when the paddies are full of water.
To take in the scenery, the best base is YUANYANG, a small town 80km south of Jianshui and 110km southwest of Gejiu. Yuanyang becomes a hive of activity on market days (every five days), when Hani, Miao, Yi and Yao minorities come into town from the villages around.
Head out of town in any direction and you'll come across lovely villages precariously perched on hillsides. Within easily walking range are Longshuba, a Yi settlement, and Jinzhuzhai, peopled by the Hani minority, which nestle quietly amid trees, giant bamboo and paddy fields. A short minibus ride away, the village of Bada is a great place to see the famous terracing, while Duoyishu is renowned for its sunrise (and highly recommended Sunny Guesthouse; ¥30) and Mengping for its sunset. Private minibuses ply popular routes between villages, or you can charter one for the day (¥200).
Practicalities
Yuanyang town is split into two distinct sections. Nansha is the new town, but don't get off here; stay on the bus for a further hour until it reaches Xinjie, the old town. For exceptionally good local information visit, Window on Yuanyang ( 
1598/7374367; 
www.yuanyangwindow.cn ) in the centre of town, near the government guesthouse.
The Apartments of Terraced Fields, opposite the bus station, has run-down budget rooms for ¥20, but there's a much nicer unnamed hotel 75m around the corner and up the hill ( 0873/5622903; Price: ¥80-139). The town's swishest accommodation is the three-star Yunti Hotel ( 0873/5624858; Price: ¥140-199) downhill from the bus station.
As well as plenty of bus services to nearby towns, Yuanyang has a twice-daily bus to Kunming (8hr), and a bus to Hekou near the Vietnam border (4hr).