China Guide
Yunnan
Xishuangbanna
A lush tropical spread of virgin rainforests, plantations and paddy fields, 750km southwest of Kunming along the Burmese and Laotian borders, Xishuangbanna has little in common with the rest of provincial China. Thirteen of Yunnan's ethnic groups constitute a sizeable majority of Xishuangbanna's 500,000-strong population. Foremost are the Dai, northern cousins to the Thais, whose distinctive temples, bulbous pagodas and saffron-robed clergy are a common sight down on the plains, particularly around Jinghong, Xishuangbanna's sleepy capital. The rest of the region is peppered with villages of Hani, Bulang, Jinuo, Wa and Lahus. There are also wildlife reserves to explore, plenty of hiking trails, and China's open border with Laos.
Flowing down from the northwest, the Lancang River neatly cuts Xishuangbanna into two regions on either side of Jinghong. To the east, there's a choice of roads through highland forests or more cultivated flatlands to the botanic gardens at Menglun, down beyond which lies Mengla, and the open Laotian border. Head west and your options are split between the Damenglong and Menghai regions – linked by a three-day hiking trail – with a more varied bag of ethnic groups and a crossing into Burma (permits to enter the country overland can be secured in Kunming). Direct public buses and tours run to most destinations from Jinghong, but in rural areas the mass of short-range minibuses is far more convenient, and tractors pick up where these won't go. Cycling is another possibility in the lowlands, though Xishuangbanna's hill roads are steep, twisted and long.
Most main centres can be visited on day-trips from Jinghong, but you won't see more than the superficial highlights unless you stop overnight. The towns are seldom attractive or interesting in themselves, so you'll need to get out to surrounding villages, small temples and the countryside to experience Xishuangbanna's better side. Many people are friendly and some villagers may offer meals and a bed for the night in return for a small consideration. There have however been a couple of muggings in recent years along remoter stretches of the Burmese border so walking alone is ill-advised.
Mo Han
MO HAN township (also known as Bian Mao Zhan, literally "Frontier Trade Station") is just 6km from the border crossing into Laos. There's basic accommodation here, and transport to the relaxed customs post (closes mid-afternoon). On the opposite side of the border from Mo Han lies the Lao village of Ban Boten. Assuming you've already obtained a visa from the Lao consulate in Kunming, the border crossing itself should be free and uncomplicated. Transport to Mo Han is by bus from Jinghong via Mengla and Shangyong (at least 9hr).