China Guide
Yunnan
Lijiang
A centuries-old maze of winding lanes and clean streams, weeping willows and rustic stone bridges, LIJIANG, capital of the Naxi Kingdom, nestles among green fields and dwindling pine forests southeast of spiky, ice-bound Yulong Xue Shan (Jade Dragon Snow Mountain). In 1996, following a devastating earthquake, the government invested heavily in rebuilding and aimed to recap its investment through tourism. Now Lijiang is one of the most visited tourist destinations on the planet, and the old town, though undeniably pretty, has become a cultural theme park. Even so, Lijiang is still worth visiting for the genuine culture that survives on its fringes, and offers plenty of potential excursions.
Rich pickings surround Lijiang, with numerous temples and villages on the lower slopes of Yulong Xue Shan well within bicycle range. Single women should, however, be on their guard when visiting the more remote temples, as the past behaviour of some of the caretakers has been less than exemplary. To experience a less touristy Lijiang, the eco-lodge at Wenhai is recommended. More ambitious trips include the excellent two-day hike through Tiger Leaping Gorge along the Yangzi River (here called the Jinsha), due north of Lijiang.
Naxi Orchestra performances
Opening time: Daily at 8pm
Price: ¥30–50
Address: In the hall just off Dong Dajie
The Naxi Orchestra is an established part of Lijiang's tourist scene. Using antique instruments, the orchestra performs Song-dynasty tunes derived from the Taoist Dong Jin scriptures, a tradition said to have arrived in Lijiang with Kublai Khan, who donated half his court orchestra to the town after the Naxi chieftain helped his army cross the Yangzi. Banned from performing for many years, the orchestra regrouped after the Cultural Revolution under the guidance of Xuan Ke, though the deaths of many older musicians have reduced their repertoire from over 60 to just 23 pieces. To counter this, the orchestra's scope has been broadened by including traditional folk-singing in their performances. The music is haunting, but Xuan Ke's commentaries may seem too long; it may be better to catch the orchestra practising in the afternoon in Black Dragon Pool Park, for free.
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