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China Guide

Yunnan

Deqin and around

    Six hours north of Shangri-La across some permanently snowy ranges, and only 80km by road from Tibet, DEQIN has traditionally been one of Yunnan's remotest corners. What really makes the area exciting are the mouthwatering possibilities for hiking around the Meili Xue mountain range, whose highest peak, the Kawa Karpo (6740m), is of great religious significance to Tibetans. Some say it rivals the Annapurna circuit in Nepal for grandeur.

    Deqin town itself is nothing special, with a couple of basic accommodation options. The Deqin Lou ( 0887/8412031; Price: ¥50-79, dorms ¥20), just north of the bus station, has tolerable rooms. More useful for budget travellers is the Trekker's Home ( 0887/8413966; dorms ¥20), 200m north from the bus station; the helpful owner has a lot of information on local treks.

    However, the most appealing prospect is to skip shabby Deqin town altogether, and, on arrival, jump in a taxi (¥20) and head 15km north to the viewing point just below the Feilai Si, which has sublime views of the mountains and a cluster of guesthouses and cafés. Avoid the overpriced Meili Hotel (Price: ¥50-79), and plump for the Meili Shanzhuang (Price: ¥80-139, dorms ¥20) – but wherever you stay, try to get up to see the sunrise over Meili's thirteen peaks. The best place to eat, the Migrating Bird Café, also serves as an informal tourist agency and meeting point.

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