China Guide
Tibet
Western Tibet
Travellers in Lhasa spend huge amounts of time and energy plotting and planning trips to the highlights of western Tibet: Mount Kailash, Lake Manasarova, and, less popular but just as enticing, the remains of the tenth-century Guge kingdom, its capital at Tsaparang and main monastery at Tholing. However, this is no guarantee of reaching any of these destinations, and it can be dangerous.
Regulations regarding visits to the west change frequently and you shouldn't underestimate the time it will take to set up a trip. Tour companies in Lhasa arrange journeys for trucks of travellers, generally quoting around ¥22,000 per truck for a two- to three-week return trip. Unless you have huge amounts of time and are willing to persevere, there is little realistic alternative to going on an organized tour; there is no public transport beyond Lhatse.
The southern route passes through Saga, Dongpa and Horpa, a stunningly picturesque journey, parallel to the Himalayas, but with rivers that become swollen and passes that get blocked by snow. This route is most reliable from May through to the beginning of July, and again in October and November, although luck plays a big part. The distance is around 1400km from Lhasa to Mount Kailash. The alternative northern route via Tsochen, Gertse and Gakyi is longer; Lhasa to Ali (Shiquanhe) is over 1700km and then it's another 300km or so southeast to Mount Kailash. It is also less scenic but it's more reliable and there's more traffic using it. Many tours plan to go on one route and return on the other – expect at least a week travelling time on either.