China Guide
Tibet
Samye
A visit to SAMYE, on the north bank of the Tsangpo River, is a highlight of Tibet. A unique monastery and walled village rolled into one, it's situated in wonderful scenery and, however you arrive, the journey is splendid. You can climb the sacred Hepo Ri to the east of the complex for excellent views (1hr); it was here that Padmasambhava is said to have subdued the local spirits and won them over to Buddhism.
Permits are needed for Samye. The Lhasa– Tsetang road runs along the south bank of the Tsangpo and is served by public transport from both ends. To reach the monastery, you'll need to cross the river via the Samye ferry (1hr), 33km from Tsetang and 150km from Lhasa. On the other side, tractors (45min; ¥5) and trucks (30min; ¥3) ply the bumpy 8km to Samye through rolling, deforested sand dunes. If you want to make life easier for yourself, just get the bus from Barkhor Square (¥40) between 6 and 8am, returning at 2pm.
The only place to stay at Samye is the guesthouse next to the utse, which provides comfortable, cheap dorm accommodation (under ¥50).
The Ganden– Samye trek
Though popular, the Ganden– Samye trek is no less serious and demanding than other treks. The route, which takes four days to complete, crosses the mountains that divide the Kyichu Valley from that of the Tsangpo and travels through high mountain passes and alpine pasture to the dry, almost desert-like countryside around Samye. The trek goes by Hebu village (three hours south of Ganden and a good place to hire yaks and guides) and involves camping out or sleeping in caves or nomad encampments, long climbs to the Jooker La and Sukhe La passes, and some deep-river wading.