China Guide
Tibet
The Jokhang
Opening time: Daily 8am–6pm
Price: ¥70
Address: Off Barkhor Square, 1km east of the Potala Palace (#2 or #3 minibus)
The Jokhang is the holiest temple in the Tibetan Buddhist world, built in the seventh century by King Songtsen Gampo to house the dowry brought by his Nepalese bride. It can be somewhat unprepossessing from afar, but get closer and you'll be swept up by the anticipation of the pilgrims and the almost palpable air of veneration. Inside, you're in for one of the most unforgettable experiences in Tibet; many visitors end up returning day after day. And from the temple roof, the views down over Barkhor Square, into the temple courtyard and as far as the Potala Palace in the distance, are wonderful. The best time to visit is in the morning, when most pilgrims do the rounds.
In front of the huge temple doors, a constant crowd of pilgrims prostrate themselves – you can hear the clack of the wooden protectors on their hands and the hiss as the wood moves along the flagstones when they lie flat on the ground. Ceremonies and their preparations take place in the main courtyard: rows of tiny butter lamps burn on shelves along the far wall, and it's a bustling scene as monks make butter statues and dough offerings and tend the lamps.
Of the temple's many chapels, the undoubted highlight is the Chapel of Jowo Sakyamuni, housing the most deeply venerated statue in Tibet. The 1.5-metre-high Sakyamuni Buddha is depicted at twelve years of age, with a sublimely beautiful golden face and draped in heavy brocade and jewels. The Jokhang was originally built to house this statue, though the Jowo Sakyamuni has been obliged to take cover in several alternative hiding places since the seventh century. Monks here keep the butter lamps topped up while the pilgrims move around the altar, bowing their heads to Jowo Sakyamuni's right leg and then his left.