China Guide
Tibet
Palhalupuk Temple
Address: Southwest of the Potala Palace
The fabulously atmospheric Palhalupuk Temple is built around an ancient cave. You'll spot the ochre and maroon, and far less interesting, Neten Temple on the cliff first; Palhalupuk is the smaller, white building below. Entered from an ante-chapel, the cave, about five square metres, was King Songtsen Gampo's retreat in the seventh century and is lined with rock carvings, many of which date from that time. The most important altar is in front of the huge rock pillar that supports the roof, the main image here being of Sakyamuni, flanked by his chief disciples. At the far right-hand corner stands a jewel- and katag-bedecked statue of Pelden Lhamo, the fierce protective deity of Tibet, on a tiny altar. The back wall has been left untouched, and it's said that the jewels of Songtsen Gampo's Nepalese wife, Princess Bhrikuti, are hidden behind. They don't get many tourists here, and the caretaker and monks are welcoming.