China Guide
The Yellow River
The Terracotta Army
Opening time: Daily 8am–6pm
Price: ¥90, winter ¥65; audio-guides ¥20 plus ¥200 deposit
Address: 28km east of Xi'an; 1hr by bus#306 from the east side of the Xi'an train station
One of the most popular tourist attractions in China, the Terracotta Army is a highlight of any trip to Xi'an. Set to guard Qin Shi Huang's tomb over two thousand years ago, the army of terracotta figurines was only discovered by peasants sinking a well in 1974. Three rectangular vaults were found, today protected by hangars so that the ranks of soldiers – designed never to be seen – can be viewed in situ.
Vault 1 is the largest, revealing more than a thousand figures (out of an estimated eight thousand) ranked in battle formation. Facing you as you enter the hangar, this is one of the most memorable sights in China; you can inspect the static soldiers at closer range via raised walkways running around their perimeter. Averaging 1.8m in height, the figures are hollow from the thighs up; head and hands were modelled separately and attached to the mass-produced bodies. Each soldier has different features and expressions and wears marks of rank. Their hair is tied in buns and they are wearing knee-length battle tunics. Traces of pigment show that their dress was once bright yellow, purple and green. Originally, the troops carried real bows, swords, spears and crossbows, more than ten thousand of which have been found. A central group of terracotta horses is all that remains of a set of chariots.
Vault 2, still under excavation, is thought to hold more warriors than vault 1. The four groups here – crossbowmen, charioteers, cavalry and infantry – display more variety of posture and uniform than the figures in the main vault, though a large number of broken figures make the scene look more like the aftermath of a battle than the preparation for one. Four exceptional figures are exhibited at the side: a kneeling archer, a cavalryman leading a horse, an officer with a stylish goatee and the magnificent figure of a general, 2m tall. At the side of vault 2 is a small museum displaying two exquisite half-size replicas of bronzechariots. The much smaller vault 3, where 68 figures and a chariot have been found, seems to have been battle headquarters.