China Guide
The Yellow River
Wutai Shan
One of China's four Buddhist mountains, the five flat peaks of Wutai Shan rise around 3000m above sea level in the northeastern corner of Shanxi province, near the border with Hebei. The long bus ride here is rewarded with fresh air, superb scenery, some fascinating temple architecture and a spiritual (if not always peaceful) tone.
Wutai Shan was an early bastion of Buddhism in China, a religious centre at least since the reign of Emperor Ming Di (58–75 AD). Though increasingly accessible today, the mountain's formerly remote location has always given it a degree of protection, and many of Wutai Shan's forty temples have survived the centuries intact. The monastic village of Taihuai is the focus, which sits in a depression surrounded by the five holy peaks; highlights are the ninth-century revolving bookcase of the Tayuan Si and the twoancient temples, the Song-dynasty Foguang and the Tang-dynasty Nanchan. All the temples today are working and full of resident clergy and Wutai Shan remains an important pilgrimage place for Lamaists.
To avoid the crowds, the best time to visit is between October and April, though be prepared for some low temperatures and possible blizzards. Whatever the time of year, don't hike off into the hills around Taihuai without some warm, weatherproof gear, food and water, and a torch, even though in good weather the trails here present no special difficulties. Allow plenty of time for hikes, as the paths are hard to find in the dark and even in summer the temperature drops sharply at sundown.
Getting to Wutai Shan is straightforward, though access can be restricted outside the warmer months. Your target is Taihuai: the nearest train station is ninety minutes away at Shahe, a stop on the Beijing– Taiyuan line and connected through the day to Taihuai by taxis and shuttle buses. By bus, you can get here in summer from Datong's north long-distance bus station (4hr 30min), and more reliably from Taiyuan's east bus station (5hr). However you arrive, you'll be turfed off the bus at some point to pay the mountain's entry fee (¥75).