China Guide
The Yellow River
Huayan Si
Opening time: Daily 8am–6.30pm
Price: ¥20 each temple
Address: Huayuan Jie: south off Da Xi Jie
Huayan Si was originally a large temple dating back to 1062 AD during the Liao dynasty; it's now in two complexes. The Upper Temple, the first one you come to, is a little shabby, but its twelfth-century Main Hall is one of the largest in China, and is unusual for facing east – it was originally built by a sect that worshipped the sun. The roof is superb, a Tang-style design with two vertical "horns" fashioned to look like lions doing handstands. The cavernous interior has some wonderful Ming statuary including twenty life-size guardians, gently inclined as if listening attentively, but the main draw is the Qing-dynasty frescoes completely covering the walls, depicting Buddha's attainment of nirvana – sadly, the lighting is poor.
Turn right out of the entrance to this complex and you come to the Lower Temple, notable for its rugged-looking hall, a rare Liao-dynasty construction from 1038, complete with contemporary statues. Halls surrounding the front courtyard form a museum of regional discoveries spanning the Liao, Jin, Khitan and Yuan eras.