China Guide
The Northwest
Tian Chi
Tian Chi means "Heaven Lake", and this unspoilt natural haven 110km east of Ürümqi – the starting point of Vikram Seth's book From Heaven Lake – does almost live up to its name, especially for travellers who have spent a long time in the deserts of northwest China. At the cool, refreshing height of 2000m, the lake is surrounded by grassy meadows, steep, dense pine forests and jagged snow-covered peaks, including the mighty Bogda Feng, which soars to over 6000m; the nicest feature of the area is that you can wander at will (you are likely to see eagles flying overhead as you trek towards the far side of the lake). There are no restrictions on accommodation (most people stay in yurts, with the semi-nomadic Kazakh population), and there is virtually limitless hiking. You need only to watch the weather – bitterly cold in winter, the lake is really only accessible from May to September.
The Kazakhs, who lead a semi-nomadic herding existence in these hills, are organized into communes, and make their living from sheep and tourism. If you have not pre-booked your accommodation, you can simply set off to find yourself a yurt. Staying in one is a well-established custom, and you'll soon find people eager to cater for you (¥50 per person). Most tourists lodge by the near side of the lake, but you can climb right up into the remote valleys of the Tian Shan or you can hire a guide and a horse for the trip (¥50–100 per day). Once up at the snowfields, the valleys are yours. Each is dotted with Kazakh yurts, and there's nearly always somewhere you can spend the night.
Access to the lake is by bus from Ürümqi's Renmin Park (9am–3pm; 3hr; ¥30–50 return), a spectacular journey through flat desert, then green meadows, conifer forests and along a wild mountain river. There's a ¥100 entrance fee to the lake area, which you pay at the small lakeside village. There's a guesthouse here – the only place to supply you with fresh water if you stay in the yurts with the Kazakhs.