China Guide
The Northwest
Qinghai Hu
Situated high up on the Tibetan plateau 150km west of Xining is the extraordinarily remote Qinghai Hu (¥90, incl ferry trip), China's largest lake. Occupying an area of more than 4500 square kilometres, at 3200m above sea level, its waters are profoundly cold and salty. They are nevertheless teeming with fish and populated by nesting seabirds, particularly at Bird Island, which has long been the main attraction of the lake for visitors. You can also hike and camp in peaceful solitude around the lake. From the smooth, green, windy shores, grazed by yaks during the brief summer, the blue, icy waters stretch away as far as the eye can see. If you have a tent, and really want a wilderness experience in China, this may be the place to get it.
The tiny rocky outcrop known as Bird Island (¥58, incl shuttle bus from the ticket office), situated at the far western side of the lake, is annually nested upon by literally thousands of birds. An immense variety of seasonal birds spend time here – gulls, cormorants, geese, swans and the rare black-necked crane. The main bird-watching season is from April to June, though the giant swans are best seen from November to February.
Practicalities
The easiest way to get to the lake is on a day-trip from Xining (¥150), though it's a very long day out, leaving at 7am and getting back at around 10pm; up to ten hours is spent driving.
To get to the lake independently, can take any bus bound for Dulan or Wulan from Xining's long-distance bus station. Each route passes the lake – one possible place to get off is the Qinghai Lake Tourist Centre, where you can stay (Price: ¥80-139, dorm beds ¥25) and enjoy boating, fishing and horse-riding.
If you don't have time to stop here, you can at least admire the view while travelling between Golmud and Xining; it's well worth scheduling your journey to pass the lake during daylight hours. The train spends some hours running along the northern shore; travelling by bus you will pass the southern shore.