China Guide
The Northwest
The Xilamuren grasslands
Mongolia isn't all one giant steppe, but three areas in the vicinity of Hohhot are certainly large enough to give the illusion of endlessness. Of these, Xilamuren (which begins 80km north of Hohhot) is the only one that can feasibly be reached independently.
Travelling independently to the Xilamuren grassland can work out a good deal cheaper than taking a tour. Store your luggage at your hotel in Hohhot, and catch a bus from the long-distance bus station (90min; ¥20) to the small settlement of Zhaohe, adjacent to the grassland. When you get off you will be accosted by people offering to take you to their yurts – try to negotiate an all-inclusive daily rate of about ¥50 per person, for food and accommodation, before you accept any offer. You aren't exactly in the wilderness here, but you can wander off into the grass and soon find it. Return buses to Hohot run regularly throughout the day.