China Guide
Sichuan and Chongqing
Food and drink
1 Hongyadong Cangbai Lu This bizarre, antique-style entertainment complex is built down the cliff from Cangbai Lu, with lifts and stairs connecting levels. Level 4 is a "food street", full of canteens serving snacks for a few yuan each, along with a couple of proper sit-down hotpot restaurants.
2 
Lao Sichuan Minzu Lu, beside the Huixian Lou hotel Do yourself a favour and eat at this Chongqing institution, featuring not only classic Sichuanese dishes, such as "wool" beef, gongbao jiding, and cold pork with garlic, but also more delicate options including chrysanthemum aubergine, and smoked duck with a steamed rice coating. The English menu is uninspired, so use the Chinese one (with photos). Price: ¥40 a head
3 Luohan Si Luohan Si Jie A comfy vegetarian temple restaurant serving everything from humble douhua, soft tofu served with a chilli relish, to imitation spareribs or smoked goose. The menu has pictures, and some staff speak English. Price: ¥20 a head
4 Pangzixian Huoguo Cheng Bayi Lu An inexpensive, noisy hotpot place on the second floor – one of many on this street.
5 Shi Jie Zourong Lu Easy to miss, the small entrance – with buns and snacks displayed – is next to a flight of stone steps. It's a good place to sample Chongqing's xiaochi, such as sticky rice dumplings, bitter gourd with sesame oil, "shadow-lantern" beef (very thinly sliced and wind-dried), and dry-fried beef in chilli oil. An English menu is available.
6 Zhang Fei Niurou Bayi Lu Fun canteen specializing in dishes using Zhang Fei beef, a sort of chilli-enhanced, spiced silverside served thinly sliced and cold, or in a stew. An actor dressed as Zhang Fei himself (the fierce Three Kingdoms general) accosts passers-by with a spear.