China Guide
Sichuan and Chongqing
Wenshu Yuan
Price: ¥5
Address: 1.5km north of Tianfu Square, just east off Renmin Zhong Lu (on the #16 bus route)
Wenshu Yuan is a bustling, atmospheric Chan (Zen) temple dedicated to Wenshu, the Buddhist incarnation of Wisdom, sits. The temple's four elegant single-storey halls were last rebuilt around 1700, each with red-washed walls, wooden pillars and vaulting, and roof corners drawn out into long points. The first hall contains a small gilded trinity, not of the usual three aspects of Buddha but of Guanyin, seated on a tiger, flanked by the Bodhisattva Puxian (on an elephant) and Wenshu, riding a lion. Wenshu's lion reappears elsewhere throughout the complex, such as in the cast-iron statue outside the third hall, whose interior houses some antique wooden arhat statues. The fourth hall too has a lion, this time as a mural and looking more like a shaggy, red-haired dog.
If you bear east (right) immediately on entering the temple you'll encounter a narrow, eleven-storey pagoda. According to some, the gold-leafed object visible in the base includes Xuanzang's skull, though other temples in China also claim to own his mortal remains. Just past here under the ginkgo trees is a small open-air teahouse area, along with a fine vegetarian restaurant – both good reasons to visit Wenshu at lunchtime.
The district east of Wenshu Yuan has been rebuilt as an "antique" quarter of stone streets and brick and timber buildings. Though it's all very touristy, with shops selling fair-quality if pricey souvenirs, it's also quite atmospheric and there are some good places to eat local snacks – though check prices first.