China Guide
Sichuan and Chongqing
Food and drink
1 Banmuyuan 98 Jinli Xi Lu, near Baihuatan Park Florid decor, bouncy staff, and rice-free, pickle-enhanced Dongbei fare, where even confirmed carnivores might be embarrassed by the quantity of meat you can order in a single serving. A selection of cold vegetable dishes, pork stew, a plate of jiaozi and beer for two comes in around ¥50.
2 Beijing Roast Duck Shandong Jie, just west of Chunxi Lu's top end Famous duck served with all the trimmings; they also do Mongolian hotpot and palate-cleansing side dishes such as tofu-garlic spring rolls and bitter bamboo shoots. Be prepared to wait for a table. Price: ¥40 a head with beer
3 Cacaja Indian 18 Binjiang Zhong Lu 
028/86670399 Bollywood soundtracks and a cosy, orange-painted interior draped in saris and posters of deities. Curries, bhajis, fresh yoghurt raitas, dal and biryanis, and plenty of meat-free dishes for vegetarians. Need to book at weekends. Price: Mains ¥15–30
4 
Chen Mapo Doufu Xi Yulong Jie, not far from the PSB police station Founded in 1862, this is the home of Grandma Chen's bean curd, where ¥20 buys a large bowl of tofu glowing with minced meat, chilli oil and huajiao sauce. They also do a good range of Sichuanese favourites.
5 Chengdu Xiaochi Cheng 134 Shandong Dajie Staff are brusque but the low wooden tables, courtyard fountain and samplers of classic Sichuanese snacks can't be beaten. Dishes include dumplings, dandan mian, small crispy-fried fish, dry-fried beef, rabbit in black bean sauce, shaved rice-jelly noodles, and much more. Price: From ¥15/dish
6 Fiesta Thai Outside the Jiaotong Fandian, Linjiang Lu Silk-clad staff greet you in Thai, and the food, from green curry chicken, mother-in-law eggs (deep-fried boiled eggs), and pork and glass-noodle salad, through to coconut custard-filled pumpkin and other desserts, is faultless. Price: ¥50 a head
7 Hambala Zangcan Wuhouci Dong Jie One of many nearby Tibetan restaurants, authentic down to the DVDs of Tibetan pop, a cowboy clientele, and begging acolytes going round the tables. Expect butter tea in metal teapots, dumplings, fresh yoghurt, and fried, boiled or chopped yak; don't count on vegetables. Price: ¥15 a head
8 Lai Tang Yuan Long Bin Jie (along the east side of the Parkson Building) One of Chengdu's famous canteens, good for a snack or light lunch. The house speciality is tangyuan, little rice-flour dumplings served with sweet sesame paste – a small bowlful costs just ¥2.
9 Laochuzi Chuancanguan 31 Zhimin Lu, 500m east of Xinnanmen bus station Four-storey mid-range Sichuanese restaurant with a lively atmosphere and hospitable staff. They do excellent sliced steamed pork, eaten in delicate "cut" buns; spiced chicken wings packed in sticky rice; sweet taro rolls; and tiger-skin peppers. Price: Around ¥35 a head
10 Long Chaoshou Chunxi Lu A renowned dumpling house specializing in chaoshou, Sichuanese wonton, and samplers of Sichuanese xiaochi. Eat in the downstairs canteen; the upper floors have the same food and terrible service at ten times the price. Price: Samplers ¥18–28
11 Muslim Restaurant At the mosque on Xitu Jie Catering to Chengdu's large Muslim population, this serves everything from lamian soup to meat-and- potato stew and upmarket Sichuanese dishes. Uyghurs stand outside grilling kebabs and bread, if you fancy a take-away.
12 Yanfu Renjia Kehua Bei Lu (near the university) Stylish Sichuanese restaurant that doesn't drown everything in chilli oil, and instead pays attention to subtle flavours: the steamed spare ribs with mung beans, "beanflower" tofu soup, pork belly slices, and various delicate dumplings have won awards, and the place is always busy. Price: Dishes around ¥25
13 Zhang Kaoya Jiudian Qingnian Lu With a tiny stairway entrance, this comprises a canteen downstairs with horrendous plastic decor and a nicer restaurant above, both serving an array of Sichuanese snacks and dishes; the real treat is their marinated roast duck in an aromatic stock. A plate of garlic cucumber or shredded white-radish soup balances the richness of the duck. Price: Meal for two costs around ¥30