China Guide
Jiangsu and Zhejiang
Tongli
Tongli, 23km from Suzhou, is a superb example of a town built on water – every house backs on to canals, there are 49 stone bridges and nearly all movement takes place by boat. Tongli's main street has become very touristy, with overpriced souvenir stands and restaurants, but a little exploration along the back alleys will reveal canals shaded by stately bridges, overhanging willows, lazing elderly folk, putt-putting barges and rural splendour. The top sight here is the UNESCO-listed Tuisi Yuan (daily 7.45am–5.30pm; ¥25), a late Qing garden that rather resembles Suzhou's Ou Yuan. It was built by dislillusioned retired official Ren Lansheng in 1886 as a place to retreat and meditate – though you'll have to come in the early morning, before the tour groups arrive, if that is your intention. Nearby, you'll find the Jiayin Hall (daily 9am–5.15pm; ¥2), the austere two-storey home of Liu Yazi, a Nationalist actor and entertainer renowned for his eccentric collection of gauze caps. Finally, few visitors can resist popping into the Sex Museum (daily 8am–5.30pm; ¥2) just around the corner from the Tuisi Garden. Set up by single-minded sexologist Liu Dalin, the collection of ancient dildoes and love beads, foot-binding tools, graphic bronzes, erotic scroll paintings and the like are all presented with explanations of their historical context. It's all rather less titillating and more informative than you might expect.
Tongli is just 23km from Suzhou and served by minibuses run from both bus stations.