China Guide
Jiangsu and Zhejiang
Ming Xiaoling
Opening time: Daily 8am–5.30pm
Price: ¥50
Address: On Zijin Shan, 30min walk west from Zhongshan Ling (bus #20 from Gulou)
The Ming Xiaoling is the burial place of Zhu Yuanzhang, founder of the Ming dynasty and the only one of its fourteen emperors to be buried at Nanjing. So colossal was the task of moving earth and erecting the stone walls that it took two years and a hundred thousand soldiers and conscripts to complete the tomb in 1383. Although the site was originally far larger than the Ming tombs near Beijing, its halls and pavilions, and 22-kilometre-long enclosing vermilion wall, were mostly destroyed by the Taipings. Today what remains is a walled collection of trees, stone bridges and dilapidated gates leading to the lonely mound at the back containing the (as yet unexcavated) burial site of the emperor and his wife, as well as the fifty courtiers and maids of honour who were buried alive to keep them company.
The Ming Xiaoling actually comprises two parts, the tomb itself and the approach to the tomb, known as Shandao (Sacred Way) or, more commonly, Shixiang Lu (Stone Statue Road) – which leads to the tomb at an oblique angle as a means of deterring evil spirits, who can only travel in straight lines. It's a strange and magical place to walk through, the road lined with twelve charming pairs of stone animals – including lions, elephants and camels – and four pairs of officials. Most people visit the tomb first and the approach afterwards, simply because the road from Zhongshan Ling arrives immediately outside the tomb entrance. To reach the Sacred Way from the tomb entrance, follow the road right (with the tomb behind you) and then round to the left for about fifteen minutes.
Next to Ming Xiaoling is the entrance to Zixia Hu, a small lake whose wooded surroundings are perfect for a stroll at any time of year. In summer, the lake is open for swimming.