China Guide
Jiangsu and Zhejiang
Food and drink
1 Behind the Wall 150 Shanghai Lu Great Mexican-style food, especially the quesadillas and enchiladas. In decent weather, the patio is perfect for quiet lunches and livelier evening barbecues.
2 Bella Napoli 75 Zhongshan Dong Lu, just east from Xinjiekou Good if slightly overpriced Italian food; the pizzas are a better bet than the pasta.
3 Daniang Shuijiao Under the Xinjiekou Department Store This popular chain serves up more than forty varieties of cheap and filling shuijiaoPrice: Most shuijiao under ¥5
4 Jiangsu 26 Jiankang Lu, just east of Zhonghua Lu One of the most upmarket places to try Jiangsu food – brine duck is a speciality.
5 Lao Zhengxing 119 Gongyuan Jie, near Fuzi Miao A favourite of GMD officials in the 1930s, this is a lively place with interesting local dishes, backing onto the river.
6 
Shanghai Tan On a small alley directly behind the Central Hotel, off Guanjia Qiao 
025/84700010 Excellent Shanghainese cuisine with the odd Jiangsu dish (notably brine duck) thrown in. The seafood is especially good. Very popular with locals.
7 Skyways Bakery & Deli 3–6 Hankou Xi Lu, west off Shanghai Lu. The best deli sandwiches in China are served here, though the range of fillings isn't vast: they bake their own baguettes, ciabatta and cookies, and have a caseful of handmade confections and cakes. Opening time: Daily 9am–9.30pm
8 Swede & Kraut 14 Nan Xiu Cun, off Shanghai Lu 025/86638798 By far the best Western food in the city, and isn't too pricey either. The pasta and bread are all home-made. The lasagne and fettucini especially are scrumptious, and the steaks are great, too.
9 Xiao Ren Ren 97 Gongyuan Jie, Fuzi Miao Friendly place designed in the style of a traditional teahouse, with musicians serenading patrons. You can try a selection of local delicacies for just ¥40.