China Guide
Hong Kong
Lamma
Y-shaped Lamma is the third largest island in Hong Kong – though at only around 7km in length, it's still pleasantly small. The island is identifiable from afar thanks to its power station, whose chimneys are unfortunately obvious; and a new wind turbine on the island's northeastern headland. Lamma's population of five thousand live mostly in west-coast Yung Shue Wan, and the rest of the island is covered in open, hilly country, with walking trails out past a couple of beaches to Sok Kwu Wan, a tiny knot of seafood restaurants on the upper east coast.
Yung Shue Wan is a pretty tree-shaded village with a large expat population, full of low-key modern buildings, which include several hotels, small stores and a bank with ATM.
To walk to Sok Kwu Wan (1hr), follow the cement path that branches away from the shore and you'll soon find yourself walking amid butterflies, long grass and trees. After about fifteen minutes you'll arrive at Hung Shing Yeh Beach, a nice place if you stick to its northern half; stray a few metres to the south, though, and you'll find your horizon rapidly filling up with power station.
Practicalities
Ferries operated by HKKF ( 
www.hkkf.com.hk ) run from the Outlying Islands Ferry Pier in Central on Hong Kong Island to Yung Shue Wan (at least hourly 6.30am–12.30am; 25-40min) and Sok Kwu Wan (11 daily 7.20am–10.30pm; 35–50min), and from Aberdeen to Yung Shue Wan (10 daily 6.30am–8.15pm; 25min). A nice way to appreciate the island is to take a boat to either Yung Shue Wan or Sok Kwu Wan, then walk to the other and catch the other boat back.
A good budget place to stay in Yung Shue Wan is the Kathmandu Guesthouse (2982 0028; dorms HK$100, rooms from HK$80), hostel-like place that offers dorm beds as well as doubles at some of the lowest rates in Hong Kong. The Man Lai Wah Hotel, also in Yung Shue Wan, right ahead from the ferry pier ( 
2982 0220; from HK$301) is a great low-key place offering small, double-bed flats with balcony and harbour views.