China Guide
Fujian, Guangdong and Hainan Island
Nanputuo Si and around
Opening time: Temple: daily 5am–6pm; Botanical Gardens: daily 6.30am–6.30pm
Price: Temple: ¥3; Botanical Gardens: ¥40
Address: On the southern slopes of Wulao Feng, about 3km southeast of the town centre (bus #1 to Xiada, Xiamen University)
Nanputuo Si, established more than a thousand years ago, is one of China's most organized, modern-looking Buddhist temples. Its roofs are a gaudy jumble of flying dragons, human figures and multicoloured flowers, the temple contains among its collection of treasures a set of tablets carved by resistance fighters at the time of the early Qing, recording Manchu atrocities. Inside the main hall, behind the Maitreya Buddha, is a statue of Wei Tuo, the deity responsible for Buddhist doctrine, who holds a stick pointing to the ground – signifying that the monastery is wealthy and can provide board and lodging for itinerants. The temple today is very active and has a vegetarian restaurant.
Immediately south of Nanputuo stands Xiamen University, and a few laid-back cafés. From here you can cut through to Daxue Lu, the coastal road, which runs past attractive sandy beaches.
A lengthy hike (at least 2hr) from the grounds of Nanputuo takes you up and over the forested Wulao Shan behind the temple (you can also get there on bus #17 outside the temple). Either way, you'll arrive at Wanshi Botanical Gardens, and its 4000 varieties of plant life including a redwood tree brought here by President Nixon on his official visit to China. From the botanical gardens' north (main) gate, you cross a rail line to reach the Revolutionary Martyrs' Memorial, about 1500m west of the town centre, near the #4 bus route. Southwest of here, along the rail line, is the Huxiyan (Tiger Stream Rock) on your right, built up high on a rocky hillside. If you climb up you'll find a great little temple nestling amid a pile of huge boulders; slip through the cave to one side and climb the rock-hewn steps to the top of the largest. Right up on the hilltop, a second small temple, Bailu Dong, commands spectacular views over the town and the sea.