China Guide
Fujian, Guangdong and Hainan Island
Shamian Island
Address: Huang Sha metro, then across the bridge
A tear-shaped sandbank about 1km long and 500m wide, Shamian Island is a calm, genteel neighbourhood. It was leased to European powers as an Opium War trophy, the French getting the eastern end and the British the rest, and the colonials recreated their own backyards, planting the now massive trees and throwing up solid, Victorian-style villas, banks, embassies, churches and tennis courts – practically all of which are still standing. Iron gates on the bridges once excluded the Chinese from Shamian (as the Chinese had once forbidden foreigners to enter within Guangzhou's city walls), leaving the Europeans in self-imposed isolation from the bustle across the water. Shamian retains that atmosphere today, a quiet bolt hole for many long-term travellers in the city. There's restricted traffic flow, and the well-tended architecture, greenery and relative peace make it a refreshing place to visit, even if you're not staying or sampling the restaurants and bars.
Many buildings have been restored to their original appearance – most were built between the 1860s and early twentieth century – with plaques sketching their history. Though sharing such a tiny area, the British and French seemingly kept themselves to themselves, building separate bridges, churches and customs houses; nothing is particularly worth searching out, but it's all great browsing. Next to the atypically modern White Swan hotel on the Shamian Nan Jie esplanade, a focus of sorts is provided by Shamian Park, where two cannons, cast in nearby Foshan during the Opium Wars, face out across the river, and you might catch Cantonese opera rehearsals here on Saturday afternoons.