China Guide
Fujian, Guangdong and Hainan Island
Pearl River evening cruises
Opening time: Depart 7.20pm–9.20pm; 75min or 90min incl dinner
Price: ¥48, or ¥88– ¥98 incl dinner
Address: Depart from Xidi Wharf, opposite the Customs House on Yanjiang Lu
Oily grey and second only to the Yangzi in importance as an industrial channel, the Pearl River (Zhu Jiang) originates in eastern Yunnan province and forms one of China's busiest waterways, continually active with ferries and barges loaded down with coal and stone.
Several operators run evening and dinner cruises along the river from Xidi Wharf. On board you can sit back and watch the lights of the city slip slowly past your table, with fine views of Guangzhou's busy waterfront, flanked by ever-higher buildings. The route takes you past the White Swan hotel on Shamian Island, back under Renmin Bridge, past Haizhu Bridge and then down to the grand Guangzhou suspension bridge at the far end of Er Sha Island. The largest of the river's mid-stream islands, Er Sha, houses the city's former boat dwellers – outcasts who lived on the Pearl River until Liberation, forbidden to settle ashore or marry anyone who lived on land – in a purpose-built estate known as New Riverside Village. From the island, on a clear moonless night you'll be able to see the lights of international freighters at anchor far downstream in Huangpu.