China Guide
Fujian, Guangdong and Hainan Island
Chen Jia Ci
Opening time: Daily 8.30am–5.30pm, last admission 5pm
Price: ¥10
Address: About 2.5km from the Jiefang Lu intersection
The story of the founding of Chen Jia Ci (Chen Clan Academy)is unusual; subscriptions were invited from anyone named Chen – one of the most common Cantonese surnames – and the money raised went to build this complex, part ancestor temple where Chens could worship, part school where they could receive an education. Though belittled today by tea- rooms and souvenir stalls, the buildings remain impressive, forming a series of rooms arranged around open courtyards, all decorated by the most garish tiles and gorgeously carved screens and stonework that money could buy in the 1890s. Have a good look at the extraordinary brick reliefs under the eaves, both inside and out. One of the first, on the right as you enter, features an opera being performed to what looks like a drunken horse, which lies squirming on the floor with mirth. Other cameos feature stories from China's "noble bandit" saga, Outlaws of the Marsh, and some of the sights around Guangzhou.