China Guide
Dongbei
The Zhalong Nature Reserve
Price: ¥20
The marshy plain of the Zhalong Nature Reserve abounds in shallow reedy lakes and serves as the summer breeding ground of thousands of species of birds, including white storks, whooper swans, spoonbills, white ibis and – the star attractions – nine of the world's fifteen species of crane. Most spectacular of these is the endangered red-crowned crane, a lanky black-and-white bird over a metre tall, with a scarlet bald patch. It has long been treasured in the East as a paradigm of elegance – the Japanese call it the Marsh God – and is a popular symbol of longevity, as birds can live up to sixty years. The birds mate for life, and the female only lays one or two eggs each season, over which the male stands guard.
The best time to visit the reserve is from April to June, when the migrants have just arrived, though the viewing season extends through September. Walking around the reserve, although not forbidden, is not encouraged by the keepers, or the murderous swarms of mosquitoes – come prepared. Binoculars are a good idea, too. Dedicated ornithologists might like to spend a few days here, but for most people an afternoon crouched in the reedbeds will be enough.
Practicalities
Access to the reserve is via the city of QIQIHAR, 30km away (1hr by bus), which has transport links and accommodation. Qiqihar is four hours' bus ride west of Harbin.
Qiqihar's two tourist hotels are the two-star Hecheng ( 
0452/2712908; Price: ¥200-299) and Hubin ( 0452/2713124; Price: ¥200-299). They're in the same compound at 4 Wenhua Dajie, on the route of bus #15 from the train station. The Huimin Fandian, across the street from the station on the left as you exit, is a good place to eat; a bowl of Muslim-style pulled noodles is ¥3.