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China Guide

Dongbei

Changbai Shan Nature Reserve

• Accommodation

Opening time: Daily 7.30am–6pm

Price: ¥100, students ¥50

The Changbai mountains run northeast to southwest along the Chinese– Korean border for over a thousand kilometres. With long, harsh winters and humid summers, this is the only mountain range in east Asia to possess alpine tundra, and its highest peak, Baitou Shan (2744m), is the tallest mountain on the eastern side of the continent. The huge lake, Tian Chi, high in the Changbai mountains, is one of the highlights of Dongbei, as is the surrounding area, the beautiful Changbai Shan Nature Reserve. With jagged peaks emerging from swaths of lush pine forest, this is remote, backwater China and difficult to access.

The reserve covers more than 800 square kilometres of luxuriant forest, most of which lies 500 to 1100m above sea level. At the base of the range, the land is dense with huge Korean pines; higher altitudes are home to the Changbai Scotch pine, recognizable by its yellow bark, and the Japanese yew. Higher still, the spruces and firs give way to a layer of sub-alpine grassland with colourful alpine plants and tundra. Animal species on the reserve include the leopard, lynx, black bear and Siberian tiger. Notable bird species include the golden-rumped swallow, orioles and the ornamental red crossbill. The area is rich in medicinal plants, too, regarded as the best place in the country for ginseng and deer antlers, both prized in traditional remedies.

Visitors come here in great numbers, and a tourist village has grown up on the mountain, with the result that the scenery and atmosphere are somewhat marred by litter, souvenir stalls and hawkers. The nearby village of Baihe also has accommodation and transport links. The weather in the region is not kind and can change very suddenly. In summer, torrential rain is common, and at any time of year cloud and mist can make it impossible to see ten metres ahead of you. The best time to visit is between June and September; at other times, heavy snows can close roads. Come well prepared with all-weather gear, whatever the time of year.