China Guide
Beijing
East of the centre
1 Courtyard 95 Donghuamen Dajie, outside the east gate of the Forbidden City 
010/65268883 
www.courtyardbeijing.com Listed in Condé Nast Traveller as one of the world's fifty best restaurants, this elegant, modish place specializes in fusion cuisine – continental food with a Chinese twist. There's the Courtyard Gallery of contemporary art downstairs and a cigar lounge upstairs. Opening time: Daily 6pm–1amPrice: ¥250 per head
2 
Dong Lai Shun Fan Zhuang Xiaoyangmao Jie, just off Jianguomennei Dajie; around the corner from the Ancient Observatory A great place to sample hotpot; it's inexpensive, with a very good reputation among locals and an English menu. Stick to the staples – glass noodles, veg, tofu and lots of thinly sliced meat – for a good feed. Price: Around ¥50 per person
3 Golden Thaitanium Dongsanhuan Bei Lu, next to the Chaoyang Theatre Tasty, very spicy and inexpensive Thai food in a relaxed setting. There's a picture menu. Combine with a trip to the acrobatics at the Chaoyang Theatre next door for a pleasant evening out; they stay open after the performance finishes at 9pm.
4 Jiajingdu Peking Duck 8 Hot Spring Chamber, Chaoyang Park West Gate 010/65918008 www.afunti.com.cn This place is pure theatre; you sit in what looks like an imperial hall, and the emperor and his concubines come out to greet you. It might be bizarre but the imperial fantasy is done with admirable thoroughness and the banquets are pretty good – though the duck is the last of many courses, so arrive hungry. Price: Set meals only, from ¥200
5 Justine's Jianguo Hotel, 5 Jianguomenwai Dajie An elegant French restaurant with the best wine list in the capital. Try the lobster soup or grilled lamb. Price: Around ¥150 per person
6 Muslim Fast Food Head up Wangfujing and just beyond the crossroads with Wusi Dajie walk 200m down a hutong full of clothes stalls on the east side of the road: the restaurant is opposite a McDonald's This technicolour canteen might not look like much, but the food is both delicious and cheap. Point to the dishes that take your fancy from the wide selection on display at the counters, plenty of vegetarian options among them. The sweets are especially good.
7 Nadaman Floor 3, China World Hotel, China World Trade Centre 010/65052266 Discreet, simple and seriously expensive Japanese restaurant where most of the ingredients are flown in from Japan. Price: Set menu ¥300 per person
8 Phrik Thai Gateway Building, 10 Yabao Lu 010/65925236 Elegant Thai restaurant popular with expats. Try the red curry and chicken satay.
9 Sichuan Government Restaurant Gongyun Tou Tiao, off Jianguomennei Dajie; head north up the alley that passes the east side of the Chang'an Theatre and after 200m turn down an alley to the right with a public toilet opposite: 50m down this alley, a set of green and gold gates on the left marks the entrance to the Sichuan Government Building This is the best place for Sichuan food in Beijing, serving the homesick bureaucrats who work in the same building. There's no English menu, but it's superb and inexpensive, and very spicy.
10 Tianshi Vegetarian Restaurant 57 Dengshi Xikou, just off Wangfujing All dishes in this bright, modern restaurant are tuber-, legume- or grain-based, low in calories and cholesterol-free, although, this being China, most of it is presented as a meat imitation: try the "chicken" or "eel". No alcohol is served. Price: About ¥50 per head
11 Wangfujing Quanjude Roast Duck 13 Shuaifuyuan Hutong 010/65253310. Small branch of the popular chain, which earned its unfortunate nickname, the "Sick Duck", thanks to the proximity of a hospital. Price: A full roast duck costs ¥160
12 Xiaochi Jie Xiagongfu Jie, running west off the southern end of Wangfujing Dajie This alley is lined with stalls where pushy vendors sell exotica at fixed prices. It's the perfect place to sample food to freak the folks back home: skewers of fried scorpions, silkworm pupae, crickets and sparrows are all available for less than ¥10 – though none of them, in truth, tastes of much. You can also get good noodles and seafood for a few yuan.
13 Xiheya Ju Inside Ritan Park, at the northeast corner 010/65067643 Sichuan food in an imitation Qing-dynasty mansion. Try the ganbian rou si, dried beef fried with celery and chilli. There's also a Western menu. Price: Around ¥60 per head