Cambodia Guide
The northwest
The flat stretch of land that fans out from Phnom Penh to the border with Thailand is sandwiched between the Cardamom Mountains in the southwestern corner of the country and the Dangrek Range in the north. A perfect hideout, these frontier hills were home to the Khmer Rouge guerrillas for nearly twenty years from 1979. The towns within the former occupied territories, such as the remote frontier outpost of Pailin, are not attractive places, as you might expect after twenty years of war and isolation, but the countryside is stunning in places and has a Wild West appeal.
Stretching across the vast central plain is the Tonle Sap, which swells to over 8000 square kilometres during the rainy season, and is the region's primary focus of transport, livelihood and leisure. The area's commercial hub is Battambang, an agreeable town bearing traces of its French colonial days. Its northern neighbour, Sisophon, makes a convenient stopping-off point on the route into Thailand.
Highlights
1 Floating villages Take a boat out to explore the floating villages on the Tonle Sap near Kompong Chhnang.
2 Battambang Laid-back town with characterful colonial architecture, a lazy riverside and a fledgling Western bar scene.
3 Wat Banan Well-preserved ancient hilltop pagoda near Battambang, with superb views from summit.
4 Banteay Chhmar Remote, ruined, fabulously carved temple.
5 Choob Small village famous for its intricate sandstone statues.