Tunisia Guide
Bizerte and the north
Sparsely populated and with few roads, Tunisia's northern coast has played little part in the country's touristic development until recently. Bizerte, the one town of any size, is far more of a port than a resort, despite the excellence of the beaches in the area. Even if you get no further, Bizerte is worth a few days of your time – easily reached from Tunis, and with a monumental heritage covering centuries of strategic importance. Closer to the capital, and very much the preserve of Tunisians, is the superlative long white strand of Raf Raf. Utica, a Roman city famous for its part in the civil war between Julius Caesar and Pompey. Inland, Lac Ichkeul and its national park are prime bird-watching territory.
West of Bizerte along the coast, it's possible to reach some beautiful and remote beaches poised between deep forested headlands: Tabarka, long popular as a resort for independent travellers and a recent target for major tourist development, has perhaps the best beach of all, overlooked by a spectacular island castle. Just inland from here, Aïn Draham is reckoned the coolest place in the country in midsummer; and around, in the Khroumirie Mountains, there are some impressive hikes.
In contrast to the coast, the Medjerda Valley, formed around the country's one permanently flowing river, has always had a considerable urban population. Béja is the most attractive of the modern centres, though more intriguing are the Roman settlements of Bulla Regia, with its underground villas, unique in the ancient world, and Chemtou, with its marble quarries and fine museum.
Highlights
1 Bizerte This underrated city has a magical old fishing port, surrounded by forts, markets and mosques.
2 Lac Ichkeul National Park An ornithologist's delight, particularly in winter, when it is a haven for migrating birds.
3 Raf Raf Beach A fabulous curve of white sand backed by dunes, forest and steep fields of figs and vines.
4 Tabarka Just about the prettiest resort in the country, in a sheltered sandy bay, with great diving and music festivals all summer.
5 Khroumirie Mountains Leafy forests, fabulous views and cool temperatures make for superb hiking country.
6 Bulla Regia With its opulent underground villas, this is one of the most extraordinary Roman sites in the world.
7 Chemtou The marble quarries here were renowned throughout the Roman Empire, but the excellent museum is now the main draw.
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