Swaziland Guide
Malolotja Nature Reserve
Swaziland's least touristy park, the easy-going Malolotja Nature Reserve (daily 6am–6pm; E25; 
4161151), offers awesome scenery and some of the finest hiking in southern Africa. This is a place to come for rugged, wild nature and tranquillity, rather than for game spotting. The mountains here, among the oldest in the world (3.6 billion years old), are covered in grassland and graced by myriad streams and waterfalls, including the 95-metre-high Malolotja Falls.
Nearly three hundred species of birds are found in Malolotja, with an impressive colony of the rare bald ibis just by the waterfalls. You'll have to look harder for game, although wildebeest, blesbok and zebra are often visible. Malolotja's small network of roads passes some fine viewpoints and picnic sites, but to really savour this park's rugged wilderness and see its waterfalls you'll need to hike, or go by horseback. A variety of trails is laid out in the reserve, from easy half-day excursions to seven-day marathons, with accommodation available en route.
Malolotja also boasts Ngwenya Mine (daily 6am–6pm; E25, joint ticket with Malolotja), the world's most ancient at 43,000 years old. To visit you must access the reserve from the southern gate near the Ngwenya Glass factory where guides will be waiting to take you to the mine site and the new visitor centre; note that to reach the mine from within the reserve you'll need to hike for two to three days.
Accommodation should be booked in advance through the National Trust Commission booking office at Mantenga Nature Reserve. The main restcamp has fifteen tent sites with hot water in a communal bath area and braai areas, but not much wind shelter. There is also an A-frame chalet (R101-200), which sleeps two, and thirteen well-located log cabins (R201-300), which can also house up to six people each. A small shop at the entrance sells basic provisions, but it's wiser to stock up in Piggs Peak or Mbabane.
If you're on a long hike during the summer, be prepared for hot days; however, temperatures drop dramatically in winter, when the nights can be freezing.