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South Africa Guide

The Western Cape

Plettenberg Bay

Over the Christmas holidays, forty thousand residents from Johannesburg's wealthy northern suburbs decamp to PLETTENBERG BAY (usually called Plett), 33km east of Knysna, the flashiest of the Garden Route's seaside towns. It's wise to give it a miss during peak season, with prices doubling and accommodation impossible to find. Yet, during low season, the banal urban development on the surrounding hills somehow doesn't seem so bad because the bay views really are stupendous. Further afield, the deep-blue Tsitsikamma Mountains drop sharply to the inlet and its large estuary, providing a constant vista to the town and its suburbs. The bay generously curves over several kilometres of white sands separated from the mountains by forest, which makes this a green and temperate location with rainfall throughout the year.

Southernrightwhales appear every winter, and are a seriously underrated attraction, while dolphins can be seen throughout the year, hunting or riding the surf, often in substantial numbers. Swimming is safe, and though the waters are never tropically warm they reach a comfortable temperature between November and April. River and rock fishing are rewarding all year long. One of the Garden Route's best short hikes covers a circuit round the Robberg Peninsula – a great tongue of headland that contains the western edge of the bay.

Whale-watching and dolphin watching

1 Dolphin Adventures Central Beach 083 590 3405 www.dolphinadventures.co.za Sea kayaking is one of the best ways to watch whales, and this outfit offers unforgettable trips with experienced and knowledgeable guides in two-person kayaks (2hr 30min; R250 including all equipment). Out of whale season it's still worth going out to see dolphins and seals.

2 Ocean Blue Central Beach 044 533 5083 or 083 701 3583 www.oceanblue.co.za Sea-kayaking (R250) and boat-based whale watching (R500) are among the offerings of this licensed outfit, which also runs township tours.

3 Ocean Safaris Shop 3, Hopwood St 044 533 4963 www.oceansafaris.co.za Tailor-made cruises from a licensed whale watching company. Apart from southern rights, the trips run into common, bottlenose and humpback dolphins, as well as Bryde's and humpback whales – and the occasional minke and killer whale. The Close Encounter with Whales outing costs R500 per person and virtually guarantees sightings between July and November; the Discovery Cruise, which costs R300, is principally a dolphin-viewing excursion.

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