South Africa Guide
The Western Cape
De Hoop Nature Reserve
De Hoop (daily 7am–6pm; R24) is the wilderness highlight of the Western Cape. Although the reserve could technically be done as a day-trip from Hermanus, you'll find it far more rewarding to come here for a night or more. The five-day, portered Whale Trail hike is one of South Africa's best walks and among the finest wildlife experiences in the world, though, inevitably, it is heavily booked out.
The breathtaking coastline is edged by bleached sand dunes standing 90m high in places and rocky formations that at one point open to the sea in a massive craggy arch. It's reckoned to be the ultimate place in South Africa (surpassing even Hermanus and De Kelders) to see southern right whales. If you're here for a couple of days in season, you will not fail to see whales, and sometimes dozens of whales are in evidence at one time, as well as dolphins. July to October is the best time, but you stand a very good chance of a sighting from June through to November.
De Hoop is along a signposted dirt road that spurs off the R319 as it heads out of Bredasdorp, 50km to its west. Accommodation (Mon-Fri 7.30am–4pm; 
021 659 3500, 
www.capenature.co.za ), usually booked up at weekends, includes a campsite with each site shaded by a milkwood tree, and two-bedroomed self-catering cottages (R480) with a cooker, fridge and kitchen utensils and bedding. More expensive, but far more spacious, sleeping six, are the three thatched cottages on the lip of the estuary, also with two bedrooms, but with more privacy and a large, comfortable living room (R950); it's a twenty-minute drive from here to the coast. Best of all, if there's a group of you, at the beach itself is the newly renovated, splendidly isolated huddle of 
thatched cottages at Koppie Alleen. The site couldn't be more thrilling, overlooking a bay full of whales (R3750 per night for six people, and R500 per person for up to two additional people).
Overnight visitors are required to reach the reserve by 4pm. There are no food supplies at De Hoop, so be sure to stock up with everything before you come – the nearest shop is 15km away, in the hamlet of Ou Plaas.